Stots Dovetail Template Master- "You can make your own jigs."

I loved the old wormy chestnut at my specialty lumber yard and made this serving tray with it. It is a reproduction of one that has butt joints but I thought I would try to see if I could use the Stots dovetail master to make a jig just for this...after all, that is the big feature of the template...you can make a jig that is dedicated to the one use.
	It couldn't have been easier. After cutting pieces at the 20 degrees as above, I simply set one side piece in the jig. I couldn't use the centering ruler here. Instead I visualized where I would want the tails to be.
After cutting a sample and liking the spacing, I made a center block with 20 degree sides to hold the two sides on the jig.
	Well one or two pictures didn't come out. What is missing is the pin jig...which I did the same as before...marking the outline of the tail and then placing on the jig. Once it was set properly, I tacked a block on wood for future use. I will shoot those pics and add them here. It is a neat use of the template system. And the final results give a nice, dovetailed tray.
Well this is a pic near the end of this sequence but I thought it would give you an instant idea of how I planned to use the Stots Template Master next - for blanket chest making. The joints are 22 1/2 inches wide and I wanted to mix 1" and 2" spaced dovetails. Three close ones at both ends.
	I started at the drill press using the master and drilling holes at every pin location and at tail locations based on my spacing, i.e. 3 1-inch, then 2-inch and at the other end, the 1-inch spacing again.
In this view, you can see the holes I drilled and I have started routing the template holes. I use my finger to match up the master with the first section of routed holes. This worked with great accuracy. Then I clamped the master in place.
	And screwed it position so that the master would not move while the large template was being routed.
With the template clamped to the workbench, I routed using the master to guide the pattern bit. I tried using the workbench and the router table for this part of the operation. Both worked well.
	But, I liked the use of the router table best. Even with this wide board, it was a more comfortable operation in my way of thinking. Of course, I had to use a different pattern bit—one with the bearing on the end.
And here is the template after routing the tail and pin channels. Note that I cut each pin slot—I couldn't figure which ones should be combined for the 2" spacing so I cut them as 1" and will cut out some after I make a test joint.
	At this point, I have run the template through the table saw ripping off the two sides. The fingers are more fragile this way but I like working with this orientation. The backer base is made up of three thicknesses of MDF giving me a very heavy but stable jig.
I use a 1/4-inch dowel as before to set the template back on the pin side the proper amount. As before, this dimension effects the tightness or looseness of the final joint. I set it at 1/4" now and will run a test; adjust it if necessary and then pin the template to the base.
	Now I am ready to use the jig. I start by placing one of my blanket chest sides on the jig and start routing the tails. I take care to center it on the jig.
I was concerned that the large side panel on the heavy jig would be difficult to handle on the router table, but it was very easy to maneuver.
	Having cut the two sides with tails, I now moved to the other side and prepared to cut the pins. Since my jig still had 1-inch spacing on all the pins, I decided I would cut them all on a sample piece of wider stock and match them to the tails...and then cut the jig down to match.
Once matched with the tail piece, I marked the fingers that had to be removed on the sample...and checked the fit with the tail piece....to double check before I altered the master jig.
	With the sample fitted, I placed it on the jig and marked those fingers that should be removed from the jig.
You can see from this view the marked fingers that I will remove. I should have been able to have figured this out by looking at the jig but after spending so much time to this point, I chose this safer method.
	I used the router to remove the unwanted fingers. I set the fence to the depth of the pin cut and routed the marked fingers out.
Having cut a sample, I was able to use it to mark where the pin board should be positioned on the jig. I used this mark then, instead of using a pencil to mark the tail position on the board. I start routing the pins.
	Almost done! This gives a good view of the 1-inch spaced dovetails at the ends and 2-inch in-between. I chose this spacing since the top section is a lid that opens and the bottom is at the foot area...and I wanted to test the ability of mixing 1 and 2-inch spacing.
While I had dry fitted the sample, I was afraid to do it with the final piece for fear on breaking off a pin...so I started spreading glue and hoping.
	A very happy moment. All four corners fit like a glove. A gentle touch with the rubber mallet did the job.
Clamp in both directions and set it aside to dry.
	The belt sander knocked the end grain excess off; remember I set the router height with the extra business card thickness.
Followed by a thorough sanding with an orbital disc sander. This chest was a joy to do. The jig is heavy but with care will last a long time ... I am sure I will be making more jigs with the Stots Template Master. It works and it works well. Will it replace my other dovetail jigs? No. But I certainly will use this and the other specialty jigs when the need arises. It's like the belt and disc sander—you always use the best tool for the job at hand.

It couldn't have been easier. After cutting pieces at the 20 degrees as above, I simply set one side piece in the jig. I couldn't use the centering ruler here. Instead I visualized where I would want the tails to be.

After cutting a sample and liking the spacing, I made a center block with 20 degree sides to hold the two sides on the jig.

Well this is a pic near the end of this sequence but I thought it would give you an instant idea of how I planned to use the Stots Template Master next - for blanket chest making. The joints are 22 1/2 inches wide and I wanted to mix 1" and 2" spaced dovetails. Three close ones at both ends.

I started at the drill press using the master and drilling holes at every pin location and at tail locations based on my spacing, i.e. 3 1-inch, then 2-inch and at the other end, the 1-inch spacing again.

In this view, you can see the holes I drilled and I have started routing the template holes. I use my finger to match up the master with the first section of routed holes. This worked with great accuracy. Then I clamped the master in place.

And screwed it position so that the master would not move while the large template was being routed.

With the template clamped to the workbench, I routed using the master to guide the pattern bit. I tried using the workbench and the router table for this part of the operation. Both worked well.

But, I liked the use of the router table best. Even with this wide board, it was a more comfortable operation in my way of thinking. Of course, I had to use a different pattern bit—one with the bearing on the end.

And here is the template after routing the tail and pin channels. Note that I cut each pin slot—I couldn't figure which ones should be combined for the 2" spacing so I cut them as 1" and will cut out some after I make a test joint.

At this point, I have run the template through the table saw ripping off the two sides. The fingers are more fragile this way but I like working with this orientation. The backer base is made up of three thicknesses of MDF giving me a very heavy but stable jig.

I use a 1/4-inch dowel as before to set the template back on the pin side the proper amount. As before, this dimension effects the tightness or looseness of the final joint. I set it at 1/4" now and will run a test; adjust it if necessary and then pin the template to the base.

Now I am ready to use the jig. I start by placing one of my blanket chest sides on the jig and start routing the tails. I take care to center it on the jig.

I was concerned that the large side panel on the heavy jig would be difficult to handle on the router table, but it was very easy to maneuver.

Having cut the two sides with tails, I now moved to the other side and prepared to cut the pins. Since my jig still had 1-inch spacing on all the pins, I decided I would cut them all on a sample piece of wider stock and match them to the tails...and then cut the jig down to match.

Once matched with the tail piece, I marked the fingers that had to be removed on the sample...and checked the fit with the tail piece....to double check before I altered the master jig.

With the sample fitted, I placed it on the jig and marked those fingers that should be removed from the jig.

You can see from this view the marked fingers that I will remove. I should have been able to have figured this out by looking at the jig but after spending so much time to this point, I chose this safer method.

I used the router to remove the unwanted fingers. I set the fence to the depth of the pin cut and routed the marked fingers out.

Having cut a sample, I was able to use it to mark where the pin board should be positioned on the jig. I used this mark then, instead of using a pencil to mark the tail position on the board. I start routing the pins.

Almost done! This gives a good view of the 1-inch spaced dovetails at the ends and 2-inch in-between. I chose this spacing since the top section is a lid that opens and the bottom is at the foot area...and I wanted to test the ability of mixing 1 and 2-inch spacing.

While I had dry fitted the sample, I was afraid to do it with the final piece for fear on breaking off a pin...so I started spreading glue and hoping.

A very happy moment. All four corners fit like a glove. A gentle touch with the rubber mallet did the job.

Clamp in both directions and set it aside to dry.

The belt sander knocked the end grain excess off; remember I set the router height with the extra business card thickness.

Followed by a thorough sanding with an orbital disc sander. This chest was a joy to do. The jig is heavy but with care will last a long time ... I am sure I will be making more jigs with the Stots Template Master. It works and it works well.

Will it replace my other dovetail jigs? No. But I certainly will use this and the other specialty jigs when the need arises. It's like the belt and disc sander—you always use the best tool for the job at hand.

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