Now time to use the Stots Template Master.
I have had a month playing with it and it works like a charm and is fun to use. Here are
some of my experiences with it. First, the instruction sheet is brief but clear. I
followed the numbers and had no problems at all.
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The first step is to find and
mark the center of the board that will be cut with tails (sides of drawers.) Now I know
how to find the center, but the instruction sheet has a center finder printed on the page,
so I used it.
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I then located the center mark in the center of one of the tail jig cut-outs. You can see
that the jig handled a larger side than the one I was cutting. You can locate it anywhere
on the jig as long as the center mark is centered. I went by eye. It doesn't have to be
exact at this point.
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The instructions give a very
clever way of setting router bit height. You place the other board (that will get the
pins) flat on the table, add a business card and then place the jig on top of that. Then
raise the bit 'til it just touches the backer board. It is easier, faster and more precise
that the usual method of drawing a line the width of the other board and raising the bit
to the line. That works; this is easier.
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Then
using the dovetail bit that is specified for use with this jig (8o 1/2-inch
diameter with 5/8-inch diameter bearing ), you route the edge allowing the bearing to
follow the template. You will cut into the backer board slightly.
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Here is the board removed from
the jig. I use a very sharp pencil to scribe the outline of the tails onto the pin board
which I am carefully holding in alignment with the tail board.
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Here, I have inserted the pin board in the pin jig. The board gets positioned so the
pencil marks align with the the template forks. While you will not see that in this photo
since they are lost in the shadows, it is very clear when you are actually doing the
joint.
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You set the bit height exactly
the same way as before but this time, I have inserted a straight bit (1/2-inch diameter
pattern bit.)
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And you route the pins guiding the pattern bit with the shaped forks. Go slow with the
first cut to minimize tearout on the front side. The backer board minimizes tearout on the
other side.
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You generate a lot of saw dust
when cutting the pins so I clamped a floor sweep to the table about 6 inches away from the
cutter. You can "aim" your cuttings in the direction of the vacuum and pickup
most of the chips.
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"And the proof is in the pudding!" This is the first joint I made with the Stots
Template Master made jigs and I must say that it was a "perfect 10." You can
make it tighter or looser by adjusting the template on the jig but the 1/4-inch reveal
that the instructions call for worked well for me. The pins and tails are proud by the
thickness of the business card that was used during the setting of the router bit height.
A quick sanding is all that is necessary....but after glue-up of course.
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With the joint perfect, I
decided to make sure the template was firmly attached by tightening the main screws and
adding a few others in the base. This jig will always be ready to use now.
Now, let's try dovetailing something a bit harder...on the next page.
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