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Here, you can get an idea of the assembly. I am inserting the smaller tube in the larger
tube. There are black O-rings that allow the small tube to telescope smoothly and still
maintain a vacuum. The vacuum hose connects to the left end which is sized for a 4"
dust collection hose.
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The guard
itself goes together quickly.
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With the guard
mounted, I move the telescoping column so that the guard is centered over the blade.
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It didn't take long
to finish the connections and make the first cut. I was eager to find out how much sawdust
the guard would pick up.
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Well, both systems
work very well. Here I am using the sliding table to handle the large panel for the bar
top, and I am happy to report that the dust collector of the overarm guard works very
well. I particularly look forward to it when I am cutting chip board and MDF
material that really produces a lot of nasty sawdust.
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When ripping narrow
pieces with the new guard in place, I realized that the guard keeps you from getting close
to the blade area. That is good, but I am used to using the Stots push shoe on the left.
It has always given me a good sense of control.
Because the new blade guard prevented my hand from getting close to the
blade, I could not use the Stots push shoe. To remedy this, I made the push shoe on the
right.
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I made this
push shoe so that the block would ride in the slots of the Incra TS-III fence. The inset
shows two pins in the bottom plate that ride the fence rail groove. They are wood dowels
that have been inserted and then filed flat to fit the groove.
I purposely did not want T-slot hardware here. The dowel pins drop into
the slot making the pushing of long stock easy and uninterrupted.
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The push side is made from
1/2" MDF which rides against the fence. I have cut two channels to allow for machine
bolts. These allow me to vary the height of the shoe to lay flat on different thicknesses
of stock. The heads of the machine bolts fit in a recess to keep them from coming in
contact with the blade.
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This will give you the best
view of this push shoe in operation. The handle keeps my hand away from the blade and yet
allows me to apply firm pressure on the push pad. I am making a 1" rip, but I have
used this down to 5/8". At that point, the MDF is almost touching, but the rip is
still safe.
By the way, I have purposely raised the Over Arm Guard so that you can see
the shoe in action.
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There are many times when
you want to lift the guard higher. The counterweight on the Exactor unit is at the rear
(far left in picture). This location is so much nicer that in most other units, where it
is in the front and can block the view. While there is a locking knob that can be used, it
is easy to balance the guard so that it can be raised and lowered with a finger's touch.
Now that the sliding table and overarm guard are installed, let's watch
Maureen as she gives her look at the new system.
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