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Step 1 for making the tails in the sides is to rabbet each end. This is simply done by
setting the router bit so that about 1/2 the bit is exposed (5/16") and then running
the side vertically over the cutter. I am using the jig I made some time ago. It is
helpful, but not really necessary. Using a standard push pad will do fine.
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With the rabbets all cut on
both pieces at both ends, I have clamped the pieces on the right angle fixture. Note that
I have placed a piece of scrap ply behind both boards to minimize tear out. More about
this in a minute.
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I am finishing my
tail cuts. They look OK from here, but there was a lot of tearout on the reverse side.
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With the tails done, I set
up to start cutting the pins on the front and back pieces. First, I set the Incra Stop so
that it stops the workpiece just beyond the router bit.
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I make my pin cuts. While
this will change with each board variation, I made the tail cuts with the "A"
settings and the pin cuts with the "B" settings. If I centered the stock
correctly and set the bit height right, my dovetail joint should be perfect.
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"The proof is in
the pudding." I don't really know what that means, but I do know a tight
fitting dovetail joint when I see it. On to the rest of the drawers.
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The insides were
disappointing. This is where tearout can really show up. Since I was in a rush to finish,
I simply said "who will notice?" and went on.
But then it started to bother me. I know better. So I started this day off
seeing if I couldn't get perfect dovetails even on "cheap" hardwood ply.
Bear with me...the next page is a complete "thesis" on making
perfect dovetails.
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