I showed you the cabinet I want to build under the insert router table. I want to have two drawers for the Incra templates and two or more for router bits.    This "art" can give you a rough idea of where I will install it. As explained before, the "A" section is for the router templates and the "B" for router bits.
I measure one last time before cutting. Allowing for the metal brackets, I will construct the cabinet to measure 28" X 28" and 23 1/2" deep. The depth will allow the cabinet to rest on the brackets and rails.
	I am cutting down 2' by 4' panels of 3/4" birch plywood. The factory edges are pretty good, but the final dimension I need is 23 3/4", so I figure I can trim 1/8" off both sides - the width of the blade.
I am fortunate to have had a very accurate table saw fence for a dozen years, but I do love the way the Incra TS III fence system is so easy to read. You can't beat if for resetting the zero point. Here, I have it set to cut the final dimension.    The bottom two scales are for router operations and will be used later.
	The sides get trimmed to 28". Again, I make the first cut at 28 1/4" and then turn the panel around and cut to the final dimension.    The final cuts are very smooth and square and will be much better for running through the router. I plan to use the locking miter bit on the corners. If you have been following my projects, you will know that I have a great appreciation for this joint.    One benefit, is that you make all your cuts to the final dimensions — you do not have to allow for rabbets or other joinery. For me, that alone is a real plus.
With all the pieces cut, I have selected the panels I want for sides and mark them all. Since there will be an orientation to the locking miter bit cuts, I want to be clear as to which panel is which. These taped sides will also indicate the outside/top of each panel.
	Well here is a picture of my favorite bit. I am just about to install it so I can make the test cuts, but I forgot to rip down some of the 3/4" ply scrap to use for setting up the bit.    This is one thing that I will have to learn — to think the process through in advance. It will take only a minute to move the TS III back into TS position, but I should have thought of this before.    To the same point, I could have dadoed the grooves for the shelves before shifting to the router position, but that was a conscious decision. I will give my views later, when I get to the dados.
I am still new with this SuperStation idea, so what seems to be a big deal (changing back to table saw) is really very easy, fast and accurate.
	Having finished cutting two set up pieces, I have moved the Incra TS III fence back to the router area, and I am installing the locking miter bit. I am sure that I mentioned this last time. The Rout-R-Lift works very well with the bent wrench method of changing bits, and I have installed the shaft lock extension rod in the new setup.
I mark the two set up boards "A" and "B". Note, that I have placed my self-made vertical fence in position.
	Do you wonder why I am using this fence and not using the positioning accuracy of the Incra TS III fence? It's very simple, I haven't yet made a vertical add-on fence for the Incra, but you can be sure that I will, and soon. Tapping the vertical fence with a hammer, for fine adjustments, has worked fine in the past, but I really want to make use of the Incra's adjustment accuracy — so a new, high fence will be coming soon!
I run through the steps of adjusting the router bit height and fence depth. My "SOP" for this works fine. It makes sense to get it absolutely right. The tightness and strength of the corners depends on it...and it only takes minutes.
	Making height adjustments has never been so precise. Each turn of the crank equals .05". This makes setting the bit height direction very accurate and quick. It will be nice to have the Incra's accuracy for setting the other dimension.
A fringe benefit of the SuperStation is that you move only one foot to make cross cuts. After each test fit, I cut off the ends and make the next test.
	After making all the cuts for the individual adjustments, I make one "real test cut." It fits perfectly.    I purposely stacked up the "cut-offs" to give you an idea of the number of test/adjustments it sometimes takes. It may look like a lot, but the final product is perfect and well worth the cost of the scrap and the time — about 5 minutes.
I start routing the panels. I must say that it is nice to have the router table surface extended by the table saw. It pays off to have aligned it all so carefully.    Note, that I have dropped the table saw blade to below the surface. I don't want to knick either the blade, the work, or me, when handling the panels.
	Here, I am running the edges on the back panel. I show this picture mainly to demonstrate that the usual feather board does not work in the usual way. I have screwed the hold-down to a longer board and have clamped it to the far end of the table saw.    This worked, but I will make a feather board that can run on the TS III rails and serve as a quicker way to set up, and be a better hold-down.

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