SuperStation - Project 4- "Making a Router Fence for Incra TS III"

	I attach a hose connection to the end of the assembly. I have added a cover on the other end to block that  hole.    Note that I have added a white fence front to the assembly. The holes are countersunk so that the machine screws do not interfere with the smooth flow of the workpiece.    I made the white fence from hardboard coated with a white plastic. This is the material used for cheap bathroom walls. It was cheap and didn't work worth a hoot. The white chipped off. I will use the board for templates — but not here.
You guessed it. I am back to using white melamine coated shelving. Each 12" X 36" board gives me 3 fence fronts.  Here I am ripping three of these boards to get me started.
	My plan is to have one fence front for each of the router bits where I want a "zero clearance" fence. Here, I am pencilling the location that I need to cut out for the router bit.
I want to make these custom fence fronts for each of the major bits I use. I will show you how I make them using the widest bit that I have — the raised panel cutter.    The first step is to mark the center point of the fence. [Note: I know that the bit shape cut-out can be cut by easing the fence into the bit while running. This is not a safe procedure, and therefore I do not use it, nor do I recommend that anyone use it. The method I show is quick, safe and close enough to be effective.]
	The bit catalog uses same-size illustrations which makes drawing the profiles a snap. I have covered the illustration of the raised panel cutter with a small square of shelving paper. This paper has a very low-tack backing so that it stays in place on the page while I draw the outline.
With the shape outlined, I remove the paper square from the catalog page and place it over my center mark on the fence blank.
	Now I use my saber saw to cut out the profile. I purposely stay about 1/8" outside my line. This cut doesn't need to be exact.
I check the cut opening with the bit. I make sure that I have a good amount of clearance on all sides and that there is enough room for some vertical adjustment of the bit.
	Now, I make one last check to see if the router bit has good clearance as it is rotated by hand. It does, so I can make similar fences for the other bits I will use.    This is the safe way to make "zero clearance" fences. This procedure takes about 5 minutes total per bit. Each fence blanks costs me $1.49. That sure beats using the high density plastic.
The white melamine fence works like a charm. It allows the work piece to guide smoothly along its surface and, since it is attached to the Incra TS III fence system, I am able to use the micro-adjust feature of this System.    Note that I am using hand clamps rather than screw fasteners. The reason is simple. They are fast and secure and do not interfere with the movement of the work piece.
	Let me take a minute to talk about dust control. A router can make a lot of dust — mountains of it. Here is a recent addition to the SuperStation. It is the downdraft cabinet ($69.00) made by Woodpeckers, Inc. It surrounds the router area and draws the dust down into the 4" dust collector hose.    [Note: the downdraft cabinet had to be lowered by 2" in order to accommodate the Rout-R-Lift mechanism.]
So what works better, the downdraft or the fence pickup? Fact is, they work well together. Which one pulls more dust depends entirely on the routing operation.       This was not a very scientific study, but I did use a dust collector connected to the downdraft and a shop vacuum that was connected to the fence. I emptied both units before cutting  panels for the Bar project.
	After using the raised panel bit, about 35% went into the fence pickup, 65% into the downdraft and a little bit came out on top the work piece.      If there is something to be learned, it is that just one dust collection method will not do the job. The other lesson is that there is a whole lot of dust made when using the router, but we already know that.