SuperStation Project - Standing Bar  - "Making the Drawers"

	The drawer stock I made from 3 layers of 1/4" ply has set, and I can now rip them to dimensions called for in the plan.
I can't go by the plan dimensions for depth because I am going to be doing 1/2 blind dovetails and, more importantly, I will be using slides that require 1/2" clearance on both sides. If you have ever installed slides, you know that a drawer that works well has to have exact clearance. The best way, I know, is to use the 1" width of the adjustable square to check the clearance. If it is over slightly, I can shim the slide. If it is under, there is no easy cure.
	Having cut all the drawer stock, I move the Incra TS III to the router position.    Of course, I am going to be making half blind dovetails using the Incra system. Of all the drawer joints that are available to me, I think the Incra System is fastest. It can make great dovetails — even in plywood.
I attached the Incra routing fence. Even though I made a shop fence with vacuum pickup, I must use this fence since the vertical fixture rides on it. I simply position it so that it is centered over the bit.
	The Incra Handbook can be overwhelming with all the templates, but it is really quite simple. I first run through the templates looking for the dovetail size that will work on my board. Then,   I check to see if I have the dovetail bit that is used for that template. With the template selected, I can proceed with setting up the system.
When I built the router storage cabinet for the SuperStation, one of the smartest things I did was to customize the top drawers to hold the 50 templates. I am looking for the DOVN template, and it is right where it should be. (If only I could say the same for everything in the shop.)    I install the template in the Incra slide carriage.
	I use the bent wrench to install the right dovetail bit. It is great to be able to change bits from on top the router. (I will admit that I had to take the router up and out to change speeds. The downdraft chamber precludes making those changes from below.)
I have placed a piece of scrap wood over the bit and am using an Allen wrench to lower the bit height. I want to "zero" the bit.
	Having zeroed the bit height, I can turn the crank clockwise exactly 7 and 1/2 turns. This will accurately set the bit height to the 3/8" (.375") that is called for in the template details. There is no more accurate way than this to set bit height.
I lock an insert plate in place.