SuperStation Project - Standing Bar  - "The Raised Panels"

	If you recall, the beauty of using the Rockler Bar plan was to be able to cut so many pieces by the plan descriptions. This should make the building of this bar easier.    That was the theory. I ran into one small mistake, and that mistake cost me about a day's worth of time. I will get to that in a minute, but let me start this week's tale.    The plans call for 10 raised panels. Six of these were wide and had to be glued up, so I started by cutting the boards to length. The flip stop on the Exaktor Sliding Table is a great assist.
I made use of a gorgeous, warm, sunny day to cut the long boards of poplar into lengths for the glued up panels. [Please pardon the camera; it was suffering from sun shock.]
	At the router, I will do:    1) edge jointing before glue up;    2) cutting biscuit slots for glue up;      and then after glue up, I will do:    3) shaping the raised panels; and    4) cutting the rails and stiles.    It always amazes me how much the router table can do, when setup properly.    I start by installing the straight bit for jointing the edges.
I use the Rout-R-Lift crank to lower the bit to fit in the fence opening. Note, that I am using the edge jointing fence I made several weeks back. The left, (outfeed), side has one layer of Formica to give a 1/16th elevation over the infeed side.    This fence will be clamped onto the new router fence/vacuum box I made (click here to see how the fence was made.)
	Now, with the front clamped to the fence assembly, I can use the Incra TS III's micro-adjustment knob to accurately set the fence to the guide bearing. This absolutely beats adjusting by the "hammer tap" technique.
I run the boards with the face side down. I could have added feather boards, but it was quite easy to just keep both hands on the board. The jointing went smoothly. I made one pass on each of the boards.
	Look closely. You can't get a better fit than this. I flipped the boards over and marked across the joint in four places where I will make slots for biscuits.
To make the biscuit slots, I install the 5/32" slot cutter.
	I lock an insert plate in position.
Having adjusted the height to center on the 3/4" board. I have cut the fence so that it fits the cutter but still allows for some height adjustment.  When using these "zero-insert" fences, you must be sure that the bit turns smoothly in the opening before you turn the router on.
	I can now cut the biscuit slots. Remember, the face side is down, flat against the table. To cut the slots, I move the pencil mark into the right side of the opening and then push the piece along the fence until I reach the left side. At that point, I ease the piece away from the cutter. [To see the entire process, click here.]