The four panel sides to the cabinet have set overnight, and I have removed any glue squeeze out from the joints.
   I am following Marc's lead and am going to use the locking miter joint for the four corners.
   Here, I am cutting a new fence insert to match this bit's profile. Before cutting, I have set the bit to the approximate height for 3/4" stock. I used the same clearance widening procedures as described earlier.

    Even with setup blocks, I always run an "A/B" test with the same stock. I was close, but after one very slight adjustment, I was "dead on."

[Click here to see the procedures for setting up the locking miter bit.]

    I will run the heavier side panels flat on the table. I am setting feather boards, before and after the bit, to help me keep the workpiece flat on the table.

   I made each of the cuttings in two passes. You can see that I have set up a roller stand to help support the weight of the panel. In fact, I removed this stand for the second run — it was smoother not having to shift my hand around the stand. These heavy side panels were very easy to control, thanks to the ample size of the router table top.

   Yes, you have seen this before. My simple masking tape markings worked for this bit as well. I just moved the tape, once the fence was set at the final cut.
   I will think about refining this indicator — maybe with a magnetic tape like on the Incra TS-III, but frankly, this works very well. Sometimes, simple is better.

  With the side panels profiled, I shift the feather board to help hold the end panels vertically against the fence. The standard featherboards are too short, so I am using a long one I had cut for use with the SuperStation.

   I was surprised at how easy it was to keep the large panels vertical against the fence. I made two passes for these pieces as well. The CMT locking miter bit cut this hard oak very easily with minimal tearout or chipping.

   I am not gluing yet. I am dry fitting to see how the locking miter joints look — they are GREAT!!! I do love that bit.
   While the unit is together, I mark the tops of each section so that I do not make a mistake in the next process.

   Marc's plan calls for two shelves to be inserted in dados. I am cutting the first one which will be the floor of the top, router compartment.

   The second dado places the shelf at the bottom of the lower drawer.

   There are the dados. The top is now at the right of the picture.
   One advantage of the locking miter corner is that dados do not show through in either direction. That, plus the excellent gluing surface, makes the locking miter corner a great method — one that adds to my joinery "bag of tricks".

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