Project - "Preparing the Router for the Table"

	I know, last page we were starting to build a router cabinet and all of a sudden I am talking about a router! There is a plan.    Fact is, it would be simple for me to make the rest of the cabinet at my present router table. However, Marc, in his video, shows how to make this table using a temporary base to support the new top. So that is what I will do.    The first thing I want to do is to remove the plunger springs. In the table mode, gravity works well without the added force of these springs.
Marc uses the Hitachi M12V. As he says, "It gives the power to the table that makes it so much like a shaper."    I am removing the springs and posts. Note, that when you do this, you should position the locking lever so that it is facing down and the flat side of the router base is facing up.
	This little bearing is part of the height locking mechanism. When the base is removed, it can fall out. Do not lose it. If you leave the router flat on its back, it will stay in position. If it does come out, it is simple to put it back in its hole which can be felt about 1" inside the shaft.    When you return the base to the router, try the shaft lock lever. If it locks, you know this little bearing is in place. If it doesn't lock, remove the shaft and start over.
I reinstall the base. One shaft is longer which allows you to get it aligned before starting the second shaft. The shafts are precision fit. I wipe both shafts with a clean rag dampened with WD-40. A little bit of lubrication does help.    Once they are aligned, just ease them all the way in. Do not force them. Once in, use the lock lever to keep them in place. If the locking lever doesn't work, that little bronze piece came out, and you will have to remove the posts carefully, find it, and try again.
	There is nothing new about using a height adjustment knobs on plunge routers. I mean, what is it but a knob and a threaded shaft. Well, Hitachi has now designed one that is very special. It is designed to hold its position once adjusted. This is great news for me. I have other such knobs, and it is not unusual for them to vibrate right off the router in use — that is not good.    The new knob comes with instructions. The parts are laid out in the picture.
Here is what makes up the system. A special shaft collar goes on first. This is followed by a square nut, a washer and then a spring. The shaft of the adjustment knob is slipped over the threaded rod and screwed down onto  the other parts. The square nut fits into the cutout at the bottom of the shaft.
	Now when you release the shaft lock, the body of the router can be fitted into the height adjustment assembly, and you have a height adjustment knob that works.    Now, I know that is a lot to say about one little accessory, but believe me, I really look forward to using this. Height adjustment is critical. It must be quick and accurate.
The next step in preparing the Hitachi M12V for the table use is to remove the handles. They can be left on if you plan to remove the router from the table for manual use. I don't. Once it is installed, it remains in the table.
	The next step is to drill a 3/16" hole in the shaft lock bracket. I carefully cover the motor's vent ports with masking tape. I do not want any small metal chips to fall into the motor.
I have inserted a few wood blocks and wedges to support the lever. This would be easier to do on the drill press and with the shaft lock off the router, but that isn't an option. I just use a small drill to start a pilot hole. Once through, I follow with a 3/16" drill for the final hole. It is important to take your time and drill this hole in the center of the lever.
	The hole is drilled, the tape removed and I have installed the 3/16" threaded rod. The two nuts on the outboard side lock that side. On the collet side, I have installed a locking nut. I do not want vibration to loosen these nuts or the rod.
The Hitachi M12V has two "ears" that are designed to hold guide bushings. I will remove these ears so that I will be able to get better access to the collet, and so that I can mount the large size bits, such as the panel raising bit.    First, I remove the 4 screws that hold on the black sub-base.
	Using a metal cutting blade in my saber saw, I cut out those ears. I have done this on three routers now. I was very anxious the first time, but there was little reason to be. The casting has a clear circle  that I run the blade against. The ears cut out easily.
A half round file is used to smooth the cut. I can sweep away the filings, remove the protective tape and mount the router in its new home.