Project - "Making the Face Frame with beadLOCK Loose Tenons"

	Here, I am laying out the face frame for the front. The only critical measurement is the 7 inch spacing of the two lower drawer sections.
With each of the frame members positioned correctly, I draw lines at the mid-point of each joint. I will use the beadLOCK Loose Tenon System to join this face frame. It should be accurate and fast.
	At the workbench, I line up the beadLOCK jig window with the witness, center-mark I scribed.
I have placed a piece of masking tape to indicate a 1" hole depth. I drill the three holes. I always use a cord-type drill. The  higher speed seems to give a better, cleaner hole with less side pressure on the guide. I use a standard twist drill. Do not use a brad-point bit.
	With the three holes drilled, I loosen the two knobs and move the guide block to the other position. Now, there are two holes to drill.
I drill those holes.    I won't show it, but the next step is to move the guide block back to the original position and re-drill the first three holes — mainly to clean out the finished mortise.
	I have a perfectly drilled beadLOCK Loose Tenon mortise.    By the way, "loose tenon" doesn't mean that the joint is loose. In fact, it is a perfectly snug, but not overly tight, joint. The "loose" refers to the tenon in that it is a loose piece of wood that fits between opposing mortises...and not a tenon shaped from one of the pieces. There are other ways to make loose tenons, but none as easy and tight a fit as this beadLOCK system. It has great gluing surfaces.
With all the mortises drilled, I am ready to assemble. With 1" deep mortises, I have cut the beadLOCK tenon material to 1 7/8" lengths — this leaves enough room for the glue.    I simply glue each piece and hand fit it into the mating piece.
	The beadLOCK tenons fit so smoothly that a complex face frame, like this,  is really quite easy to assemble. It is just a matter of starting at one end and "going on down the line."
With some light clamping pressure, the face frame has glue squeeze out at each of the joints — just what I like to see.   I can put this part aside to set. Next, I will work on the router and the top.