Project - "Adding the Slides"

I know, you just saw this picture. I repeat it so I can illustrate a major goof on my part (who else's?)    It looks right but I have the front panel upside down — and I cut the dados to this — and my top compartment is 4" too short.    Who said men can't cry. What I did, or said, I can't repeat — then I came up with a solution.
	My fix is a 4" top section. It is joined with the same locking miter joints, and I am using pocket screws to connect it to the lower section.  I will saw out the old top rail once the top is on.    I am really irked with this mistake, however, the height of the cabinet is now at a better working height for me. If I add the mobile base I may have to trim 1" off the cabinet, but for now, this works. Thankfully, I had enough oak left over.
I have moved the whole cabinet to the work table and laid it on its side. I want to add filler strips so that the drawer slides can be aligned with the face frame.    I have tried various combinations of stock and have found that 3/4" poplar and 5/8" flake board will do the trick.
	I have cut enough to be able to place them vertically at three points. That will be plenty for attaching the slides.    I am using a narrow crown stapler with 1 1/4" staples. I nail the 5/8" chipboard first and then the poplar.
I am using 22" full extension KV 8400 series slides. Note the 1/4" strip of wood between the slide and the frame. That spacer is necessary for proper mounting of these slides.    I use the square to align the slide before screwing it to the vertical spacers.
	Here is the slide for the bottom drawer.  Fact is, I am now realizing that I made another mistake. I have placed the slide back as I would for an inset drawer. These drawers are overlap, so I must move the slides forward — they should be 1/8" back from the drawer front. I will do that first thing tomorrow. All things considered, this error is rather painless.
This is more like it.
	One measurement that is very critical is the distance between the slides. Ordinarily, I subtract 1 inch (1/2" per slide). Since I have the slides mounted, I can measure between the slides to  get the final drawer width. Once again I use the folding rules extension to measure this width.
At my miter saw, I set the adjustable stop to the measurement.
	I cut a small scrap to that measurement and test it between the slides at many points. My drawers can be a fraction narrower, because I can shim where necessary. But they can't be any wider. If this stick binds at any point, I will make the length slightly less.
I am ripping a 2' by 4' panel of 3/4" birch ply into four 5 3/4" widths. The plans called for 6" but to allow for the kerf of the blade, I cut to the narrower dimensions.