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A self-stick measuring tape is not included, but as far as I am concerned, is
a must. [The catalog number for the right one is listed at the end of this page.]
Now here is how I setup my sliding table fence. First, I move the fence so
that it is 1" from the blade. I install the tape so that the one-inch mark is at the
start of the fence.
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With the tape in place, I
lift the end and trim off the first inch of the tape. I do the same at the other end of
the fence.
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This is the view I
see. The steel tape fits perfectly. Now I want to use the stop that comes with the unit.
With the stop set and locked at the 12" mark on the steel tape, I move
the entire fence until the stop just touches the 12" speed square which is resting
against the blade.
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Here is my close-up view.
You can see why this adjustment is necessary. The arrow points to the leading edge of the
stop. The block that I use to locate on the tape is not in the same plane as the stop
— so I simply move the whole fence until the stop just touches the 12" speed
square. Now the tape will give me a true indication — wherever I locate the stop.
Essentially, I have "zeroed" the fence to the stop block. This is much easier
than measuring the width of the stop and adding that to the measurement I want.
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I said a minute ago, that I
would explain why I wanted the fence to be closer to the blade. This picture shows why.
Many of the crosscuts will be small ones. If you set the fence to the miter slot, it is
too far away from the blade to hold small pieces securely.
Note, that my right hand is holding the workpiece securely on the table, BUT
my left hand is pushing the sliding table to make the cut. I want to push the table
at its mid-point (arrow) and not push the end of the fence.
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The fence is 36"
wide, but the extension can be adjusted out another 36". The small tab on the
extension is used to support the longer stock.
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By moving the fence
forward to a different set of holes, you can use the fence for miter cuts. This view shows
the T-slot bolts in the miter position.
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I am checking the alignment
at 45o. There are marks on the board at several "most often used"
degree settings.
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Here is a great way to
accurately set an angle — I have installed my Incra Miter Gauge in the slot from the
other direction. Whatever angle I have set on that, I can match with the Rockler Sliding
Table.
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This is the bottom line:
the Rockler Sliding Table works smoothly. It will never glide as easily as the ball
bearing tables, but it does move smoothly and with no slop at all — set it square,
and it gives you an absolutely square cut.
This heavy, glued up panel was "a piece of cake." It is 26"
wide; the table's movement had room to spare.
I definitely think the Rockler Sliding Table is a good buy. You will
certainly see it used here in this workshop. Just be sure to also order the steel,
right-to-left measuring tape.
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