Project: "Making a Harvest Table"

	It is time to make the table base. Beth has put two legs in place with some stock so that she can get an idea what the spacing should be for the width of the table.
She folds the hinged drop leaf so that she can get an idea of the "maximum" width.
	With the drop leaf extended, the distance from the edge of the table to the leg is 8". She places the leg in from the end the same distance — it looks good to us, so that is what we will make.
Beth take a close look at the dovetailed corner we will use on our table.
	This test leg/table corner is one that I did months ago, so I have Beth run through the step-by-step from the site. [click here to go there.]
There are so many little details in the step-by-step, Beth printed out the pages and will use them to guide her with her corners.
	In error, I ordered legs with mortises. I was ready to send them back when I realized that these mortises are positioned so that they will help the cutting of our sliding dovetails. As our step-by-step procedure suggests, you want to cut a straight cut first in order to make the dovetail cut easier. There is about an inch of unmortised section, and for that we will just use the dovetail and work slowly. Maple is hard and can burn bits if pushed too much.
Beth looks over the assortment of dovetail  cutters and decides the 5/8" dovetail bit will work best. It is also the one that is used in the step-by-step tutorial.
	Beth rips some maple to the width of the table sides and ends. She will make a test joint first and then come back and do the sides.
She installs the bit in the router and sets the height as high as she can get it and still have cutters exposed.