Project - "Debbie's Kitchen Breakfast Nook"

I have followed the print-outs for each of the 6 doors and have cut each stile and rail piece exactly as specified.    I am using the CMT Sommerfeld Cabinet Making Set. In addition to having the raised panel and rail and style bits, it has an ogee bit that I will use on the outside edges after the doors are completely assembled.
	I am going to make the coping cut on the ends of the rails first. The correct bit for this is the one with the guide bearing in the middle.
I have installed the cope cutter and am adjusting the height of the bit so that I have the 1/8" lip at the top of the cut. I use the RouterRaizer™ to make this ultra fine adjustment. I route a sample board to double check the setting.
	Here is my sample cut. I have the exactly right lip, so I am ready to make all the cope cuts.    Note that for the test cut, I simply used the adjustable fence rather than to use a zero clearance insert. Now that I know the bit is set right, I will make an insert.
I start by placing a new insert in between the left and right adjustable fences. I tighten them and press them securely against the insert.    Standing behind the fence, I turn the router on and slowly move the fence into the cutter. I stop when the fence comes in contact with the pattern bearing.
	With the router stopped, I trace an outline where I will need to cut room for both the bit top assembly and the bearing that is in between the cutters.
I have used my scroll saw to cut where I had marked. With that done, I have re-installed the insert and used the router to complete the cut.    Note: when making these zero clearance inserts, adjust the fence slightly so that you can "widen" the opening an 1/8" or so. Also, be sure that the bit can rotate a complete revolution before the router is turned on.
	The last thing I do is to adjust the fence so that the bearing lines up with the fence.
Here is how I make the cope cuts on the ends of each rail. I have fastened a plastic push block to a piece of scrap wood. This will serve as a guide to help me keep the rail perpendicular to the fence and will serve as a backer board so that I will not get tearout on the ends. Remember that the face side is always down.
	Once finishing all the end, coping, cuts, I changed to the profiling cutter and have made a zero clearance insert for that.    I am now running all the stiles.
When it comes time to profile the rails, I use a pushblock in which I have cut the profile. I then push the end of each rail into this cut edge and make the profile cut along the rail edge.    This is a trick I picked up from Marc Sommerfeld's videotape ["Arched Raised Panels Made Easy"]. It is an extremely clever way to minimize tearout of the end of the rail. Anyone making raised panel doors would be wise to order a copy of this video — there are many good ideas on it.
	I try the door in place. It is a 3/8" overlay door and is exactly right in all dimensions. Between the new software program, the CMT bit set and my careful measuring, I have door frames that are as professional as you can get.    Now to make the raised panels.