I started the new day by
unclamping the two butterflied pieces I left in the clamps overnight (the Home Depot bag
was used to keep the pieces from sticking to each other.) Note that on each composite, one
side is darker than the other. This is always the case with veneers that are bookmatched.
It isn't so much that one is darker, but the way the grain is either raised or flat. This
illusion will lessen as I sand, scrape and then finish the pieces.
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With the veneers firmly anchored to the substrate, I can start to
thickness sand off the bandsaw swirl marks. I start with a very rough, 36 grit, paper and
take about 1/6 turn of the depth crank each pass (less than 1/64th"). Note the
rubber block in the lower right corner of the picture. This wood is very resinous and
wants to clog the sanding belt. I use the rubber "eraser" to remove the dust
build-up one or more times every pass.
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Here is what I am talking
about. By rubbing the rubber crepe across the rotating drum, I can free most of the
sawdust. If you do this frequently, the belts last longer. If you don't do it, the sanding
belt will become clogged and useless in short order.
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One set of veneers had a split that I
filled. I used a mix of epoxy to which I added some of the bandsaw dust from this wood. I
set this piece with a plastic cover in the clamp for curing overnight. The next day I
sanded the epoxy down and added a final surfacing of the epoxy/sawdust mix.
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On the other board, I sanded the piece with 36 grit, then 80 and then
150 all on the Performax thickness sander. The piece is absolutely flat and of
uniform thickness.
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I don't use this Delta
Bench Random Orbital Sander much. I save it for the fine boxes. I tried it on this piece
and was delighted to find that it worked very well. I started with the 80 grit and worked
up through the grades until I was at 320.
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It may
not look it, but the surface is as smooth as a baby's bottom (It's smooth.)
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I
couldn't resist "sneaking a peek at what the finished piece will look like. I
coated the piece with mineral spirits just for this quick glance. When the piece with the
epoxy "catches up" to this one, I will add a backer veneer to help stabilize
this and to serve as an attractive inside.
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It
is several days later and I am sanding the second piece. I use the 36 grit paper until all
the signs of the bandsaw are gone. Then I change to 80 grit and sand until all the signs
of the 36 grit paper are gone.
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I do the same with the 150
grit. It sounds like a lot of work, but in fact the time I take here saves a great deal of
time in the next steps. You can see that I am sanding through some areas. This was because
the first piece of veneer I cut was slightly less thick that the other three. I will have
to make one of the jewelry chests a little smaller. I can make the size decision
when I have finished the panel.
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