Project - "A new Cape Cod Style Vanity"

The task of cutting the cockbead molding is just a lot of fine trimming of the pieces. I have cut each piece about 1/4" longer at the compound sliding miter saw and am using the guillotine trimmer to make the final cuts.
	The trick is not to get the length right the first trim, but to shave it down slowly so that the piece will fit exactly. Once it is right, I add glue along the length.
I use 1" brads to tack the strip in place — and then on to the next piece.
	Here are the first two drawer openings. This process is time consuming, but it is worth doing right.    I am stopping for the day and will finish in the morning. Then, I can start making the doors and drawer fronts.
It's a new day and I have spent an hour finishing adding the cockbeading around each of the drawer and door openings.    I plan to use the new Raised Panel Doors software that I recently installed on my PC. It worked very well on the cabinets for Debbie's kitchen. I start by accurately measuring the openings of each space.
	I can't show you all of the program here, but this will give you an idea of how I use it. This screen is for single panel doors. There are all sorts of other choices. Before I selected this screen, I inserted a number of options that I want to use, such as: stile and rail width, bit depth, inset or overlay doors, etc. With those set, I only have to insert in the upper right the Opening Width and Opening Height — and press "Calculate" at the bottom of the page.
It takes a nano-second for it to calculate, and then I press the Print Preview to get a drawing with the individual measurements of the rails, stiles and panels.    I have done raised panel doors for years and computing the measurements is pretty easy to do if you are careful in your calculations, but I really like this program. It is inexpensive and exact and makes it easy to experiment. For example, I usually make stiles and rails 2 7/16" wide. This measurement makes it easy to compute the needs because it takes into consideration the grooving depth of the CMT set.    But, this time, I wanted to make as narrow a rail and stile as I could that would still allow a 35mm hinge. I used 2 inches. I input that and instantly all measurements were re-calculated. I like it.
	Having ripped all the poplar to 2 inches, I use the printouts from Raised Panel Doors to quickly cut the rail and stile pieces.
I have my door pieces laid out with the rails crosswise and the stiles in the vertical direction. I do not want to cope the wrong ends.    I start by selecting the cope end cutter and will set it up to cope the ends of the rails.
	The coping cutter is the one with the bearing in the middle. I install it in the router pressed all the way to the bottom of the collet. I can do that since I have a 1/2" O-ring in the base of the collet.