Needless to
say, some more time has passed and I am driving home the last pocket hole screws.
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This is always the "moment of truth." Thankfully, the face
frame fit the case exactly. So far with this project, I have made no mistakes maybe
I am getting better. But, there are a lot more steps to the whole process.
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I use glue and 1½"
finishing nails to secure it to the case.
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Here is the case and face frame. I am sanding off some of the glue that
squeezed out in the individual joints.
By the way, you can see that I inserted back pieces but left the middle
section open. Yes, the plumbing will come in from that wall, but actually, I didn't have
any spare ply for that section. I will add it later or maybe just allow the wall to
be the back.
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My next task is to
add cockbead molding around each of the openings. I need a lot of strips of 1/4"
thick poplar. I have set the fence to 1/4" and am ripping a piece of poplar into the
thin strips. I would never be able to do this ripping safely without the Grip-Tites in
place. After I feed the board almost all the way through, I walk around to the outfeed
side and pull it the rest of the way. The hold-downs keep firm control of the board at all
times. I do not know of any other safe way to make these repetitive, narrow cuts.
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With the
strips cut, I will use this specialty bit [CMT Molding System]. It has a ¼" beading
shape that I will use.
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I use the bent
wrench to install the bit.
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I use the RouterRaizer
to adjust the bit height until the bead portion is centered on one of the 1/4"
strips.
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I have placed finger board
holddowns before and after the bit vertically and right at the bit horizontally. I set
them so that they have very light pressure on the strips. I really want them to just keep
the strip on the table and against the fence.
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It didn't take much time at
all to shape all the strips. I have left the table saw and the router setup in case I need
to cut more (and I will.)
Next, it is time to trim each and every one of these to the openings.
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