Here is what I want to do. First I will work at getting the perfect fit using my usual A-B
method. Once I have that, I will count the turns to a "zero" point. From that
time on, I should be able to install the bit, adjust things to my settings and route away.
That may be over simplifying things. If this bit is even the tiniest bit off, it will not
give a good joint. We'll see.
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This is what I mean.
Even setting it with the setup block that I had, my first cut is about 1/16" off. I
made adjustments and re-cut the test blocks until I was absolutely on target.
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This is how I am
running the pieces. This small jig has been used many, many times. It works fine here, but
I am looking forward to when Jessem releases their new miter gauge.
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It took me two more tests
before I came up with this joint. I have it separated so that you can see the line. It is exactly
aligned.
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While the bit is
where I want it, I will cut a new setup block of UHMW. This time I have it the full
4" width so that I can bridge the fence gap. Because of the density, I make several
light passes and one final pass to smooth it over.
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Before I move the
setting, I want to count the number of turns. I always start by placing it at the 12
o'clock position. Then I start counting.
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I have turned the crank about
13+ turns. I am using the flat side of the setup block to touch the top of the bit.
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I mark my setup block with
the number of turns and the scale positions of the left and right fence
adjustments.
I know this should work. But, I am going to test it.
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The only valid test is to
remove the bit and reinstall it, so that is what I do.
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Then I lower the bit until
the top of the bit is flush with the table. I use the block again to "feel" that
position.
If the crank is not at 12 o'clock, I remove it and replace it at that
position.
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Now, I crank the height
adjustment 13 1/4 turns exactly. With that done, I can set the fence and run a new test.
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I have to make the
adjustment at both ends. They had slightly different settings. That is purposeful. I find
that once you get close, it is easier to make adjustments of one end only and let the
other end be a pivot point.
While I am setting the final point for the picture, I really will make the
cut in several passes. Before long, I will make an adjustable stop that I can tighten in
the track. I will use that to mark the final point.
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I am making my final pass on
the "B" board.
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That's what I like. A new
procedure that works. I will do the same on all the bits I use. There are quite a number
of them. This test and setup took about 45 minutes. Rather than to do this on all the
bits, I will simply remember to do it every time I set up a new bit. I definitely think it
is worth it.
We pride ourselves in woodworking, but there are times when being as exact as
a "machinist" makes good sense. The Jessem router table is very precision made
and offers us, woodworkers, a chance to be exact it is a good thing!
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