"JointAbility - A great tool for the shop"

	Another accessory is the saw adapter plate. As far as I am concerned, this is very necessary. You will see in a minute how the saw and router work great as a two-part team.    The instructions are simple. You can mount any circular saw to the adjustable adapter plate. I am positioning my small, trim saw in this picture. While I have the adapter out, I will also drill holes in my 7 1/4" circular saw for heavier work.
I have added a clamp to hold the adapter plate and circular saw in place while I drill two 1/4" holes.
	I file down the rough edges where the holes broke through on both this plate and the saw's plate.
A couple of hand screws are included for attaching the saw to the adapter plate. It can be easily and quickly removed for regular use.
	Back at the JointAbility, I have inserted a small piece of scrap and am setting it so that it protrudes 1/8"from the guide board. I clamp it at that point.
With the saw unplugged, I place the saw on the JointAbility. I retract the guard and move the blade flush against the board that I set at 1/8" out. I now tighten the two brass screws that hold the saw in position on the adapter plate.    My saw is now set to guide against the JointAbility and to leave a 1/8" surplus. That surplus will be routed off. The finished edge will be exactly positioned and edged. So, let's try it.
	Well, I asked for rough, and rough is what I got. This actually is from Beth's husband, Robin's, collection. They live next to a sawyer and this example is typical. It certainly will be a good test of the system.
It took just a minute to insert the rough board into the JointAbility. I simply "eye-balled" the finished line that I would want.
	The large hand clamps have plenty of gripping action. They can be quickly adjustment to accommodate different board thicknesses. This board isn't going to move.
Now, I run my circular saw down the edge. My left hand is keeping the adapter plate securely against the guide bar and the saw level on the white guide board.
	You can see the waste of the first step. The saw left 1/8", which I am now routing to final edge the piece. I work from right to left to remove the excess.  I follow this with a climb cut, moving from left to right, to "finish" the edge. This probably isn't necessary, but it can't hurt and takes 2 seconds.
Yes, this is the same picture that I started this story with. Now, you have seen how easy it was to create a board with perfect edges from a very rough sawn board.    But, where the true test will be in edging several boards in preparation for gluing up. That's next.