 |
I use a long 1/4" bolt with a wing nut and washer to hold the add-on
fence tightly in position.
|
With an engineer's square, I check the
fence. It is right on.
|

|
 |
With the Grip-Tite steel fence
clamped in place, I screw it onto the chipboard fence. It comes with several holes
pre-drilled and countersunk. The seated screws leave the fence totally smooth.
|
I add a coat of wax to make the surface
even slicker.
|
 |
 |
The video gave me an important tip for
setting the magnetic holddowns. Their magnetic force is very strong, so this method is a
great help.
You start with the Grip-Tite resting on the board you plan to rip and about 1
to 2 inches away from the fence. Then you slide the board and Grip-Tite, together, towards
the fence. This should place the Grip-Tite close to where it want it.
|
A tap or two with the mallet places the
Grip-Tite tighter on the board.
|
 |
 |
I use the same method to place the 2nd
Grip-Tite just after the blade.
|
I am making my first rip cut using this
system. The board in my left hand is of the same thickness. I will use this to push the
first piece through
|
 |
 |
While the magnets do a lot of the work,
the design of the Grip-Tite plays an important role. Arrow number "1" points to
the plastic hold-down which also helps reduce kickback. The number "2" arrow
points to a small sandpaper covered roller which is angled slightly. It moves the wood
into the fence.
Note, on the Grip-Tite that is after the blade, the small roller (#2) is not
in contact with the wood. This is important since you would not want this roller to
attempt to close the kerf.
You can also see in this view, the 2nd piece of wood which is at the blade
and is pushing the first piece safely through.
|
I do NOT make a practice of
removing my hands from a workpiece during ripping, but I did want to demonstrate the total
control of the Grip-Tite 2000 System. I really think that it is a great addition
to my table saw. It will make ripping all pieces, but especially thin strips, easier and
safer.
|
 |