Beth, double checks to see
that the cross cut pieces are exactly the 8 1/4" that is called for an error
here could be disastrous later on.
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Beth starts setting
up for the ripping of the pieces. As she did with the miter saw fence stop, she double
checks to see that the Incra TS-III is zeroed. It is. She sets it for her first rip.
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She starts by
ripping the 8 1/4" rail pieces to the three widths that are required. The narrowest
one is 2", so she uses the Stots push shoe to help her make the cuts
safely.
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Back at the layout table,
Beth checks the three parts against the plan. They are right. She can now rip the narrower
stile stock.
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Having set the fence to the
required stile width, she starts to set the Grip-Tites in place. This is her first time
using this new addition to the shop so it took getting use to the magnet's pull
requires you to "plan" the position. I showed her how it is easiest if you rest
the Grip-Tite on the work piece and slide them both into position. That worked for her.
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A few taps of the rubber
mallet pushes the Grip-Tite's plastic wing onto the board. It takes only a little contact
for the Grip-Tite to hold the piece on the table.
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To review what I explained
in the earlier story on the Grip-Tite, the unit has two hold -downs. The forward gripper
(left) is a piece of plastic that presses down on the board. Its angle reduces the chance
of kickback. The right arrow points to a very small sandpaper covered roller that is
slightly angled in. This is called the "kerf keeper". It moves the piece against
the fence.
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Beth places the second
Grip-Tite just forward of the blade. While I have explained this setup in great detail, it
takes less than a minute to set both units in place. It really is a very "user
friendly" system. And, boy, does it work well!
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Beth makes her first rip cut
using the new system. She uses the push shoe to start the board. Note that she has her
second board ready to follow.
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She uses the second board of
the same thickness to continue feeding the piece through the blade.
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I don't think there is a
better, safer way to make rips particularly the narrow ones.
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She cuts the stiles to
length.
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The clock has a lot of curved
panels and rails. Thankfully, there is a special template kit just for this clock project.
Beth looks through the templates to locate Template Number 1.
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She marks the center of the
rail to be shaped using this template.
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Beth applies double faced
tape to the template. If we had allowed extra width for tenons, we could drive a nail
through the templates into the tenon area to secure the template. The tape will work just
fine.
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At the bandsaw, Beth cuts the
piece, leaving about 1/8" distance between the cut and the template.
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There you have it. The
template is secured on the piece, and there is just a little walnut to remove. Pattern
cutting is next.
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