Making Energy Efficient Garage (Shop) Doors

	I really can't say enough about this method of jointing. After I did one side of all the 2 X 4's I decided to do the other, as well. I was going to joint only one edge, but the operation went so smoothly, I wanted to try something.
This is what I wanted to see. I wanted to put all the 2 x 4's side by side to see if the edges were jointed well enough to be a tight "table top". They passed the test. I laid a clamp across just to keep them in line, but they all fit very nice and tight.    I can't say enough about the JointAbility's ability to joint wood.    Now on to the next step.
	As I said earlier, I will use OSB on both sides of the frame/insulation section. Since these panels come from the manufacture very square, I will use them to keep the whole assembly square. After having measured and re-measured, I am cutting the panel to the right length and width.
I have set the saw stop to give the right height and cut the 8 pieces that I will need.
	With the frame pieces cut to length, I use a square to mark where I want the beadLOCK loose tenons to be.
I normally clamp the workpiece AND the beadLOCK jig together in the vise. These 2 X 4's are so long and heavy, I found it easier to clamp only the board in the vise.
	I use a ViseGrip to hold the beadLOCK jig on the 2 X 4. The arrow indicates the window which I simply line up with my pencil mark. This ViseGrip is the one that is part of my Kreg Jig outfit — it works very well holding the beadLOCK in place.
I am using the larger, 1/2" beadLOCK jig so I have installed a long 1/2" bit in my power drill. You can see that I have applied a piece of masking tape to serve as a depth stop. I am drilling holes 1 1/2" deep.    I have found that if there is a trick to using the beadLOCK, it is to let the drill do the work. I use little pressure when drilling, particularly at the start of the hole. These 2 X 4's are quite green, so I bring the bit out occasionally to clear the chips away.
	Once the holes have been drilled, I use an air gun to blow out the chips. The beadLOCK procedure calls for "re-drilling" the first set of holes for this purpose. I found that with this construction lumber that re-drilling still left too many chips. Instead, I used a small screwdriver to loosen the chips and then blew the mortise clean. [Note: be sure to close your eyes when doing this.]
I have set the saw stop at 2 7/8" and cut a number of the 1/2" beadLOCK loose tenons. The slightly shorter tenon will allow for some room at the bottom of the mortise for sawdust and glue.
	While the board is still in the vise, I brush glue over the bottom 1/2 of the tenon.
I tap the tenon in the mortise. It is a wonderfully, tight fit. I double check the length of the exposed tenon — I do not want to find it too long for the mating mortise.