The bar in the foreground
is the side adjustment I just put in place to give me holes 37mm in from the edge. Now I
am putting in place the guides for the end distance. In my hand is the one for the other
end of the guide. The clever jig allows you to set the rail so that holes can start 32mm
down from the top or 1/2 that. The latter will be used when drilling holes for some of the
hinge clips and/or slides.
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With the measuring
guides in place, I can move the jig so that the guides are against the side and the
top. The edge guides do not hold the drilling guide in place. They are just used to locate
it correctly on the work piece.
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Like the other guides, the rubber
strips underneath keep it from slipping around, but I add a clamp to hold the guide
anyway. This clamp is the same Festool clamp that can be used in the groove on the
underside.
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I use another clamp at the
other end. This one is made by Jorgenson. It is one of the many clamps that work with the
3/4" holes. Frankly, I didn't know this hole system was so popular. They certainly
are proving to be useful.
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Would you believe that I am
now drilling the holes. I have set the plunge depth to give me a 1/2" hole. Actually,
I need a 3/8" hole for the shelf clips, but the point of the bit makes it necessary
to drill a little deeper.
What makes this so easy is that the guide is controlling the position of the
router exactly. My left thumb presses down on a rocker arm that raises and
lowers a positioning pin. When it is raised, I can move the router until the pin drops
into the next position. I have locked the router "On" and use the heel of my
right hand to plunge the router each time the pin is set. This is a really
"cool" and effortless operation.
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I couldn't be happier with
the results. The 5mm shelf clips I have fit tight and the holes are chip free and look
sharp.
Unlike the many jigs I have used, the router is not drilling through the
aluminum guide. No router collars are used. In fact, the router bit is a good inch away
from the guide. The holes in the guide are used solely for positioning the rocker pin. A
very neat system.
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Now I want to drill the
corresponding holes on the other side. I have turned the piece 180o. You can
barely see the holes drilled on the right side. Placing the hole guide so that the holes
line up with those already drilled can be a problem but not with this system.
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If you remember,
I installed an end bracket in the groove at the end on both ends. This time I
will place the guide so that the right end is against the top edge the near edge. I
have slipped the two edge guides on the aluminum guide to give me the same spacing from
the edge as before. [Aha!!! The offset scale that I was talking about earlier is probably
used when the line of holes should be further in to allow for the thickness
of the back.]
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A 35mm bit is a part
of this hole drilling kit. I have always drilled 35mm holes for hinge cups using the drill
press. When I first thought of installing an "aggressive" bit as this in the
router, I was a little leery.
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Not now. It makes a
beautiful hole with very sharp and crisp edges. The rail guides and secures the router
well so that the hole is a very safe one to make. The inset photo shows how snugly the
hinge cup fits.
On the next page, I will review some clamps that make the Festool
Multifunction Table even more useable.
Karla will be back soon and we will continue with the cabinet making that we
started.
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