So this is the stack of "furniture*"
that we now have for helping us in this simplified jig.
This is the next plank we want to resaw, so Jessica simply
starts by placing it on the worktable in the location where re-sawing is
most comfortable.
Now, she stacks pieces of "furniture" alongside the mahogany and
builds up the stack until it is a as high as the mahogany.
This may take any combination of the "furniture," but she should be
able to come close to the mahogany height. She has placed a clamp over the
setup to keep the mahogany flat against the MDF.
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From a month ago, Jessica pulls out the
small adjustable square which still has the "thirds" marking set.
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She uses a small tack
hammer to tap into place a razor blade on her mark. This method really
speeds up the process and adds quite a degree of accuracy.
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She lays the guide rails on the stack
and carefully aligns the edge to the razor blades. It is so much easier to
align the edge to the blades than it is to see pencil marks.
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Before making the cuts, she double
checks to be sure the plunge setting is high enough so as not to come in
contact with the clamp.
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And she makes the cut. By the way, she
did re-install the Panther rip blade before she started this ripping
operation.
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She has flipped the partially ripped
plank over and is tapping a wood shim into the kerf to keep it open even
with the clamp in place.
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She uses the small square to set
the guide rail to the saw kerf. Accuracy is important here. She is careful
to align the guide rail with the left side of the kerf.
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She makes her mating cut.
The clamp keeps the board from moving, and the shim keeps the clamp
from squeezing the kerf area. It is a very smooth second cut.
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How many times have I said "the proof is
in...." Well it is. Being able to resaw a thick board to very useable and
equal pieces is worth the weight of a bandsaw — you know what I mean.
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