I have made the
adjustment and am trying it out on the "B" corner pieces that are set in the jig
on the right hand side.
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This is the
completed corner. Note that on this end, the little black stop offsets the front in the
opposite direction.
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It isn't a bad box for first
try and for plywood, but I am eager to test it on real stock. I think I understand quite a
bit more on how to use the tool. It is like anything else, there is a learning curve. For
dovetail jigs, I think this one has a typical learning curve not easy, but not
difficult either.
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One thing about this
box is that there is very little front wood. It wouldn't take much sanding to pop right
through. I have been using 3/4" stock and the recommended front is 1" for this
template. That would be just right.
I found when looking at this first example that every template has a
recommended range of wood thicknesses. This template calls for 1", so the thin
front will happen when using 3/4" stock.
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Well, I found
some stock that will mill and look much better that the 3/4" plywood. The front is
walnut and about 13/16" thick and the side is 1/2" zebrawood. It was very
easy to make this corner. The extra 1/16th helps with the front thickness. I had to make
one trial joint to reset that black plastic dial to give me a perfect joint with a
1/2" side. That is a pretty joint in my book.
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On to another template. And
this is a beautiful template. It is the one for small box joints.
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This template took very
little time to change over to. All the templates work pretty much the same. The little
black guide has been turned so that the arm for this template is out. It cleverly will
place both boards with the offset needed just as it did on the 1/2-blind dovetail before.
The arrow points to a piece of wood that I have fastened into place to backup
the work pieces. This will reduce tearout. There are four holes through which I have
placed screws. Since they are fastened to the template, the backer board will be a
permanent part of this template and always ready.
Before we leave this picture, note that the front piece is about 1/8"
proud of the template.
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Once set up, the joint is as
easy as the others to cut.
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It is a pretty tight box joint but the edges are not aligned. I am quitting for
the day. Tomorrow, I will read the offset section again.
Well, I am back and I take a new look at this joint. The fingers are very
tight, but there are two problems: 1) the top and bottom edges don't match, and 2) the
inside of the red piece is slightly rounded.
By now, I bet you have come up with the error. The wood is too thick. The
book shows 3/8" as maximum, and this is 1/2".
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I have already mentioned
that this vacuum scoop is part of the edge guide and too far back to get a good suction
flow.
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Here is the new chip
deflector that is meant for this use. The arrow points to the vacuum connection
much better than the other which is through the router's housing.
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