"Festool System - Making a CD Storage Cabinet"

      On my last page, I showed you the strips of walnut that I attached to both doors. This made up for them being too narrow. Now, I have taped off the door segments and am toning the new strips. I am using SolarLux black. I got it from my local Woodcraft store. It does the job very well. It blackens but leaves the grain surface of the walnut. I guess you would call this ebonizing.

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   When I pulled back the tape, there were some ragged edges where the black bled through. I could scrape them off, but instead decided to cut a 1/8" groove as a "separation" between the black and the natural walnut.
   I have installed a 1/8" spiral bit in the router. Note that I have adjusted the "rider." This helps keep the router level on the guide rail.

    There are a number of ways I could make this cut accurately, but using the Festool MultiFunction Table with the two Veritas adjustable clamps is the very best — as far as I am concerned. I simply adjust each clamp until the workpiece is directly under the router where I want the groove.

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   With the plunge depth set to 1/8", I can make this cut very easily and safely.

    This is when the fun begins. My plan is to apply three coats of VelvitOil. Once cured, I will use the Beall buffing system.
   If you look closely, you can see the 1/8" groove. I think that it makes a great border.

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    I jump ahead a couple of days and show you the status after 2 coats of VelvitOil. There is a nice deep sheen and the grain just looks better and better.

   There are many sandpaper and buffing wheels available with the Festool System. Two unusual (to me) pads are the 600 and 1200 screen meshes. I assume that I can use these screens the same way I would use 600 and 1200 wet/dry papers. At least, that is what I am planning on doing. I attach the 600 screen to the unit. Note that there are no holes for these screens, so I have not attached the vacuum hose.

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    It just gets better and better. The 600 screen works very well. I lowered the speed of the Festool Rotex 150 and just let the unit float on the oil. When the wood starts to appear dry, I apply more oil. I want to keep the surface wet as long as I am using the screen.

   You can see a number of other things I have tried — auto buffing liquids and the Beall buffing system. I can't tell you if they work or not, but I can tell you that I rushed the process and   "gunked" up the surface. I wiped the surface clean with mineral spirits and added a final coat of VelvitOil. This time I will wait the 5 days or so for the penetrating oil to cure before I do any further polishing.

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