"Festool System - Making a CD Storage Cabinet"

The cabinet is taking shape. All the plastic CD holders are in place and work well. Clearly, you have to have exactly the right fit to make these work, but they are worth it.
	Do you remember this picture. The book matched panels are what started this project. With the case done, I can turn to making the rails and stiles to hold these panels.
I have to do some math to figure out how long the rails should be. The case is 12" wide, and I want to have two doors — 6" each. The narrowest I am comfortable making the rails and stiles is 1 1/2" wide. I am measuring the depth of the tongue in order to compute rail width. But I have a greater problem.
	The panels are approximately 6" wide. That is good, but if I make two door frames using 1 1/2" stiles and rails, each panel will barely be 3" wide. I am afraid that will take away from the impact of the book matched doors.
I have roughly painted a frame on the picture to give me, and you, an idea of what a 1 1/2" frame would look like.    No matter how I do it, the frame is going to take away a lot of the great look of the book matched panels.
	I decided to not make a frame but simply hinge the two pieces to the case. I have had to add 1/2" ("A") on both doors to make up for the panels that were too narrow. I have also cut a piece of walnut for the base ("B") and for the top ("C"). My intent is to stain these elements a dark stain or ebonize them. That way, they will serve as a visual "frame" for the panels.
I am resawing the top piece to give me a 1/2" thick panel. I think that thickness will match the two side pieces and will look better.
	If you recall, last week I tried using a Japanese crosscut saw to finish the resawing cut. I gave up and used the bandsaw, because the crosscut saw was taking forever. This week I purchased the right saw for the job — an "Anahiki Rip Saw." I got it from Woodcraft [click here to see catalog page.]
What a difference it makes. It is the right tool. I did have to remind myself that it cuts on the pull rather than the push stroke. The blade is less than the 1/8" kerf of the table saw's rip blade, but it follows the pre-sawn kerf very well.
	After resawing, I planed the middle section and then sanded the board from 36 grit to 220. The top is now 1/2" thick and, I think, is the right proportion to the front doors.
These are the knife hinges I will be using. They are heavy brass and quite expensive — $47 for the two pair. I think they will be worth it.    I will stop here for the week. Next week I will make a simple jig to mortise these hinges and start the finishing process.