With several pieces ripped, I can now set up to cut all the pieces to length, For this, I
can use the guide rail of the multifunction table. I haven't used this guide for some
time, so I make a quick check to see if it is still in square it is right on the
money.
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The vertical pieces are to
be 23 1/2" long so I set the stop to that distance. This is the first real time that
I have had a chance to use the measuring tape that I applied some weeks ago. It works like
a charm.
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I make my cut. Note
that I have placed a second piece of ply under the piece that I am cutting. I am not
cutting that piece. I am only using it to raise the 1/2" workpiece up so that the
guide rail can be touching it. The fence is a little over 1/2" tall and would prevent
the guide from resting on a 1/2" thickness.
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The three pieces are exactly
the same. I am going over the edges with a piece of 120 grit sandpaper. The newly cut
edges are nice and crisp. The factory edges needed a little cleaning up.
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Now I am cutting
6 pieces 5 1/4" across. That allows for 1/8" depth of dados in the uprights.
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I am now preparing to use the
Festool Router to cut the dados and rabbets. I have installed a 1/2" wide
straight/mortising bit and am now plunging it until it just kisses the workpiece. I lock
the plunge at that point. It is my "zero setting."
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I want to cut dados and
rabbets 1/8" deep. I use the 1/8" block from my set of gauge blocks to set the
plunge depth. There is a vernier scale I could have used, but I prefer to use these blocks
for standard measurements.
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With my first dado cut, I
can check for depth. It is right on. The width is right too not too loose and not
too snug.
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I have made a lot of dados
over the years, but I must say that this is the easiest and most exact method that I
have ever used.
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I am dry fitting the pieces.
The corner clamps are the one I purchased about a month ago. They are great for holding
two pieces at 90o. I am also double checking to be sure that the
black plastic CD case side will fit in the space it does.
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The dados are purposely
shallow, so I want to make sure that I spread glue over all the mating surfaces.
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I use 1 1/4" brads to
hold the joints together while the glue sets.
As I write this caption, I realize that I would have been smart to have
screwed the CD plastic pieces in place before I assembled this box. Oh well, next
I will be painting the interior space, then adding the plastics, and adding a back. Then
the "fun" part begins: making the paneled doors with my walnut crotch pieces.
That will allow me to try out the Festool system with rail and stile joinery.
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