It is easy to mount the Parallel
Guide. The plunge saw base has a groove and capture screws meant for this
use.
With it mounted, Elena scribes a line 1 1/2" wide. We haven't
yet figured out the best way to set this for recurring cuts, but it will
come to us pretty soon.
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Our first method is perhaps the most
obvious. That is to place the saw on the board and line up the blade
just on the other side of the line she just made. With the saw there, ease
the fence in until it is just touches the board. She can then tighten the
two knobs.
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With her left hand firmly on the saw,
she places her right hand on the outside of the fence and uses this position
to move the saw forward keeping a very slight pressure also against the
fence. Describing that motion is probably harder than just doing it. It is
different than the usual ripping using the guide rail, but it is as
accurate, easy and safe.
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She checks the width along the entire
length. It is as accurate as can be.
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She is now about to make her second rip
to the very same dimension. Note that she has positioned the first cut off
on the other side. This will allow the base to have a stable platform for
each of the subsequent cuts.
At the very end of the cut, the board being cut will want to shoot
out the far end. This is this cuts equivalent to "kickback" on a table saw,
except without any force. We found that all we had to do was as we neared
the end of the cut, to move our right hand from the parallel fence to the
board itself — and release the plunge.
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She checks these ripped pieces for cut
quality. They are as good or better than rip cuts off the table saw, and way
faster and safer.
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Setting the fence width by pencil line
as we did worked very well. But, I would like to find a way to more easily
set it and without a pencil mark.
By next week, I think I will have one or two ways...maybe even with
digital readout. In the meantime, we are happily ripping up a storm.
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