Project: "Making Euro-Style Frameless Cabinets"

A clear case of beauty and the beast. (You can decide which is which.) But it is the book that I want to focus on. Canadian cabinet maker Danny Proulx has written this new book "Building Frameless Kitchen Cabinets" that I was reviewing for the forum Woodworkers Website Association (WWA) — one of the better forums, in my estimation.    Anyway, as I read it through, I became more and more convinced that Danny had the right idea. Frameless construction was not new to me, but what I started to like about this book is that it set "rules" for construction.  These "rules" were what Danny had used over time and that made sense.    It made so much sense that I decided to introduce Beth to frameless construction and use Danny's book as the guide.    He gave me his permission to do just that and was also kind enough to contribute 5 copies of the new book for giveaway on the site. Please don't write in for this. I will use the large list that was developed for the Akeda Giveaway.    Also, Beth and I are going to make all the cabinets without using the tools of my shop. Instead, we will use the Festool assortment of tools. I am out to prove that one can build an entire kitchen without a tablesaw, chop saw, jointer, etc.
	There are many things that I like in this book, but clear illustrations are clearly one of them. Beth and I will make the base cabinet first. The table on the left page shows the "cut list" for both 5/8" and 3/4" melamine particle board. We will be using 3/4".
To get started, I will set up an area for cutting the 4 X 8' panels. The arrow points to one of two saw horses. I am dragging a sheet of 3/4" cheap plywood to be placed on the horses. I am now storing sheet goods on the portable storage rack. It works great.
	Once I have the horses centered, I screw in two screws in each horse. I do not want the plywood shifting on me.
On top of the 3/4" sheet, I have laid a sheet of 1" foam insulation board. I have used this one piece for a number of projects. I don't cut into it enough to dispose of it.
	I am fortunate to have a lumber yard that not only delivers, but the driver will stack these heavy 3/4" white melamine boards on my storage rack. They are about 75 lbs. each, a bit more that the 10 lbs. I am allowed to lift these days. I am able to drag them along the shelf, and when they are about 1/2 way off, I can flip them onto the insulation board — and push them into position. Works great!
Beth is here, and we are ready to start making a base cabinet. I have entered all of Danny's measurements from a table into a program that I have used for a couple of years now. It is "Cut List Plus" (http://www.bridgewooddesign.com) and can save lots of time and reduce errors.
	Beth has printed out the Cut List Plus cut plan for the base. Beth takes one last check against Danny's table in the book.
Beth has aligned the long Festool guide rail with the panel of white melamine particle board. These panels come with an extra inch so that we can trim off rough edges. Beth will make her first cut taking off 1/2" of selvage. The clamp runs in the guide rail channel and holds the rail firmly in place for the cut. For Festool followers, she is using a new, quick clamp that really speeds things along.
	Before she makes the first cut, she will set the plunge depth. The right depth is about 1/4" greater than the board thickness. She starts by plunging until the blade hits the top of the panel. She can position the stop at that point or just read the indicator.
With the plunge depth set at the top of the board, Beth can add another 1" which will be for the 3/4" of the board and the 1/4" cut through. Once set, Beth doesn't need to worry about the plunge depth — it will be right on. Doing this will allow the cut to be best for the melamine board and will not destroy the foam panel underneath.