 |
With the veneered
moldings ready, Maureen moves to the table saw and a new problem: the veneer is wider than
before. The height of the blade is not sufficient to cut it standing up. She will have to
lay the stock down flat on the table and angle the blade.
|
Last time, we used the Incra Miter
Gauge to accurately make the 30o cuts. This time, the gauge will be set at 90o,
but first, Maureen makes one 30o cut that she will use as a guide in setting
the blade angle—that is clever of her.
|
 |
 |
Maureen double checks the accuracy of
her method by comparing the angle set by the block she just cut to the Beall Inclinometer (click here to go to that article.)
The block is right on, which means that we should make similar angle blocks
for the other common angles and use the accuracy of the Incra Miter Gauge to make those
blocks.
|
Maureen rabbets and dados the side
molding to hold the lid and bottom, respectively. (Note, in fact there are two
"dado" cuts—the one for the top is at the edge of the molding and,
therefore, is considered a rabbet.)
|
 |
 |
Maureen cleans and lubricates the
80-tooth cabinet blade to ensure the cleanest, sharpest cuts.
|
The inset picture shows how Maureen set
the Grip-Tite to serve as a stop-block for cutting the first 30o angle. She
will make cuts enough for her 6 sides and then set up for the 2nd miter cut.
|
 |
 |
Maureen has set the Incra Stop to
accurately cut the second miter on each piece. To minimize tear-out, she presses the block
securely against the fence and makes the cut slowly. It worked. All cuts were as smooth,
and the edges were as crisp and sharp, as you could possibly want.
|
Having made all the cuts of the side
pieces, Maureen turns to the molding which will be the top. She has brought the blade back
to 90o and places the molding down on the table. She points to where she lines
up the molding with the end of the fence to make each cut.
|
 |
 |
Having made the first cut, she flips the
piece over and makes another 30o cut. She continues this along the board. Every
other piece will be used for the top. Again she is careful to make these cuts slowly to
minimize tear-out.
|
Back at the bench, she starts assembling
the sides on a piece of 2" masking tape.
|
 |
 |
She carefully rolls the box up. Just as before, each of
the pieces fits exactly.
|
With the box assembled, she moves to
glue each of the edges of the top.
|
 |
 |
Here we had a problem: no clamps that we have would work
on the rounded surfaces. Maureen's solution was to tape the sections together. Using
polyurethane glue, this should work. She will be adding an inside lid which will give the
top plenty of strength.
Well, that's as far as we got this time. Next time, Maureen will finish this
piece, add an inside compartment, line it with nice velvet material and put a high polish
on the veneer.
From what we can see so far, this Curly Maple-Sapele jewelry box is a
"keeper."
|