Router Table SOP —"Setting Router Bit Height on Work-in Turn Bits"
Once the correct router bit height is determined, she can make a fine tune of the fence setting. With the fence set correctly, the board edge should line up with the forward part of the bit. |
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To check out the settings, she runs the "B" sample piece vertically. I have made this shop jig to hold small pieces vertically. |
This is a pretty good corner. A small adjustment should be enough so that she can run the actual pieces. |
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The final sample joint. It is about as good as you can get. The CMT lock miter joint is so square and has great gluing surfaces. |
That is how I set up these bits. Height is critical. You can buy set-up blocks, but I don't think they help as much as knowing the SOPs. If you save your samples, that is all the set-up blocks you will ever need. Remember, that the stock you are setting up for must be exactly the same as the stock your "sample" or "set-up" blocks are. |
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Some say that to run the wood vertical for the lock miter bit, you need a tall vertical fence. Not so. My fence is about 5" high. All I have to do is to set up feather boards before the cutter in the same area as where I am placing a push pad. That should keep the workpiece tight against the fence. |
I have used a shop made vertical fence
that simply clamps onto the router table top. It works and if you have a lot
to run, then it may be worthwhile to make.
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Also, you can make multiple passes with any of these bit set-ups. I often send the piece back for a "final" pass. I use my hearing — if I hear that the bit is still removing wood, another pass is necessary. If the fence is set correctly, you won't take off too much with additional passes.Menu by Product - CMT Products |
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