Router Table SOP —"Setting Router Bit Height on Work-in Turn Bits"
Earlier, I set the fence to the low point of the bit. Now in running the actual boards, I can refine that setting. My finger is pointing to the very fine space between the fresh molded board and the outfeed fence. Simply bring the fence forward that little bit and you are set to run the wood correctly. |
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I have put two feather boards in place to keep gentle downward pressure on the stock as I run it. |
A final frame with me and the nicely joined boards using the CMT Reverse Glue Joint — it is a fine bit for joining boards once you know how to set the bit up. |
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Now let's look at the Lock Miter Bit — it can seem much harder to setup. But it is not really. |
The instructions simply say to match up the center point of the bit (the illustration) with the center point of your stock. Theoretically, that is correct but I think it makes things harder to do rather than easier. Like, where is the center point? |
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Gail was helping me this day and she starts the setup process exactly like I did with the reverse glue joint. |
She makes a rough setting of "centerpoint" to "centerpoint" and then lowers the bit s lightly. That way, once she figures out how great the discrepancy is, she will know that the bit has to be raised. |
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She sets the fence so that the bit is slightly ahead of the forward point of the sample block. She will set the fence exactly once the bit height is set properly. |
She makes sample cuts with the "A" side run up and the "B: side down. |
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And she uses the "card trick" to determine how great the discrepancy is. |
Having counted out 1/2 the cards, she adjusts for the discrepancy. She knows she will have to raise it that amount since she purposely lowered the bit earlier. |
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