I wouldn't normally screw the corners together but since I am covering the outside edge with a piece of bead molding, screws are fast and strong. Plate glass mirrors are heavy. Making the frame as structurally strong as possible makes sense.       I now measure to determine the cross pieces I need.     I have ripped some 5/8" thick white oak to 3/4" width. Since both sides get profiled, that width is about as narrow as I can make without it tipping. It looks good and in proportion to the rest of the mirror.    You can see that two feather boards keep the stock close to the fence and my pushblock keeps it on the table. It doesn't take long to mold enough strips for all the cross members.    This is a jig I tacked together to hold securely the cross pieces as they move against the router bit. Two flat panels are shaped with the opposite profiles so that the molding will slide in between and be captive. This keeps the molding from moving crosswise to the cutter.   I insert a new piece to be cut in the groove and slide the form against the fence to "zero" the piece.    With the small molding inserted, I drive a screw to hold it in position. I use a longer piece of molding to press the small piece against the fence while the screw is being inserted. The screw is being inserted from the bottom of the molding so the hole will not show.    And here is the best part: with the small piece solidly held, pushing the jig past the router bit is a very safe and sure  way to make this cut.    There are some 22 pieces, or 44 ends, to be shaped. This "throw-together", one-use jig makes the cut of the end profile exact and safe.    I use my trusty Kreg Jig to cut a pocket hole. I only drill one piece at a time. The piece at the left, is to give equal clamping pressure. I cut one pocket hole in each end.    This show the two holes. Two screws will be used to hold this small piece in place.    At the bandsaw, it is easy to trim the two square "ears" off the piece. These would normally be a part of the tenon in the standard window sash. Since this section is "on top" of the glass, the mortise isn't used.    It too often forget about sanding until everything is together. This certainly is the exception. It takes only a second or two to sand the shapes before they are put into place. The shape on the left is the mating shape that is cut with the other bit. I have wrapped  220 grit pressure sensitive sandpaper over that profile. It makes sanding the cut piece very easy. Main Menu Previous  Page Next  Page