Beth uses the
adjustable square to align the fence with the bit's bearing .
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She has adjusted both
fences to give her about 1/8" clearance on both sides. As a last minute check, Beth
rotates the bit manually to ensure that it clears the fence.
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Using a push pad, Beth
routes a sample.
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Remember the 1/8" lip
she wanted and set the router for? Here is that lip. It is very important to have that.
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It took Beth
less than 3 minutes to make the cuts in all eight ends of the rails.
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Before she changes routers
or bits, Beth uses this handy gauge to measure the router bit's height. She is measuring
the top of the post. While "matched sets" usually allow us to measure heights
from the bottom, I assume we can also measure from the top.
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Beth puts back the router
with the cope bit (1) and takes out the router with the matched profiling bit (2). What
could be easier.
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For this first time, she
carefully adjusts the router height to the height gauge she set from the profile router.
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And, once again she sets the
fence to the bits bearing. She could have put stops in place for setting the fence, but
this way seems easy enough.
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To run the rails, she
presses the coped end into the push block which she has cut the profile in. It holds
exactly and minimizes tearout of the coped end. This is a real neat trick we learned from
Marc Sommerfeld.
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With the push pad and rail
together, Beth can make the profile cut of the rail.
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Running the longer stiles is
easy. She just uses her left hand and a safety push pad to hold the piece down and against
the fence and her right hand with a Stots push shoe to move the piece safely through the
cutter.
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Beth does a quick test of a
corner. It is perfect.
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