New Product - "CMT Router Table with Large Insert"

While Beth was away, I worked on the grooving. I wanted each groove to be 2" away from the last. There must be a clever math way to do it, but I couldn't figure it out, so I simply marked a 2" point.
	The jig is made of one piece that fits into the groove and the top piece which is ripped to the 2-inch marks I just made. Not "rocket-science" but it worked.
So with the "jig" in  the last groove I cut, I move the guide clamp up until it firmly touches the jig and clamp it in place.
	I remove the jig and route a new groove with the router base against the clamp guide.
Well the grooving is going well but oh so slow. The mortising bit can overheat easily, so I am making each groove in several shallow passes. One of the problems with using mortising or straight bits is that when you take the cut in steps, it is only the bottom tip that does all the work.
	I finally wised up and installed an up-spiral 1/2" diameter bit in a second router. I will make the first cut with it and follow with the 3/4" mortising bit. The up-spiral is only 1/2" — I don't have any larger. But it still worked fine. I was able to make one pass with the spiral at full 3/8" depth and follow with the 3/4" mortising bit at full depth. Both bits worked without any strain and the final groove was smooth with very little "fuzzing."
Even with the vacuum attached to the 2nd router, there was a lot of sawdust to suck up.
	Beth is back and inspecting my progress.
Do you remember that we used iron-on edge banding before the grooving. This is why. We clamped the edges together, and they served as perfect "backups" to each other — and there is literally zero tearout at the notches. A little hand sanding is all that is needed. If we had not done this, the edging would be torn up in many places.
	Beth runs a block plane over the edges to make them "picture perfect."