New Product - "CMT Router Table with Large Insert"

Between the two of us, the measurements have been checked and rechecked a number of times. We want the sides and back to have grooves cut in them to the depth of 3/8".
	I want the insert plates to have only 1/8" play so that they can slide in and out easily but no more. I do not want the equipment to be able to fall out of the slots. To be certain of our "math", I have used a scrap piece to cut to the lengths. I have also cut some grooves with the router set at exactly 3/8" depth. Beth slides one of the plates in a groove and checks the fit. It is fine.    I was going to use lock miter joints but opted instead to butt the back into the sides and use the Pocket-Pro to give me a number of screw locations. They will be from the back and therefore not seen. Time to cut the panel.
I bought a fresh sheet of birch ply and have laid it out on my work table. With the two sides and back all being the same length, Beth starts by putting the Festool guide rail in position for the crosscut.
	She has set the saw's plunge depth to be about 1/4" deeper than the plywood. If you recall, the work table is made up of a sheet of A/D plywood topped with a 1" thick piece of foam. The extra depth of cut then only cuts into the foam. It is a great system for handling these large panels. With the Festool saw cutting exactly to the guide rail edge, it makes for extremely accurate cuts.
To setup the guide rail for the cutting of the sides, Beth uses one of the "sample" side pieces for length and uses a 1/8" brass spacer to set the guide and allow for the blade width.
	She makes the cut. She makes all three cuts using this setup.
Beth is setting up the edge bander and will apply the veneer edging to the front edges of the side pieces. Can you guess why we do that now?
	Here is part of the answer. Beth is clamping the three pieces together . The arrow points to the boards that have iron-on veneer. She is attaching a clamp guide that will position the router for making the 3/8" deep dados. I am hoping that by clamping the veneered edges like this, that veneer chip out will be nil — I hope.
Beth has installed a 3/4" mortising bit. This bit is similar to a straight bit except that the bottom of the cutters are straight across. This gives a groove with a very flat bottom.    She has plunged the bit to just "kiss" the ply and then is using a 3/8" brass spacer to set the plunge stop. The router's plunge scale is easy to use and is accurate, but I like to use these spacers when I can.
	Beth makes the groove in two passes plunging a bit at a time. By the way, the Bessey K-body clamp is used to hold the three pieces tightly together. She will move the guide rail clamp for each of the grooves. The K-bodies assure her that there is no board shifting when she repositions the guide rail.       Next week, we will have this finished and will try all the tools in their slots. We will also add a French cleat on the back so that we can hang the garage. And, we can start using it.... yeah!