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With
the bit adjustment figured out, I proceeded to make the joints. I make two push blocks
that could handle the short pieces—one for the horizontal piece (left) and one for
holding the mating piece vertically (right).
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This will give you an idea of what the push blocks are like. Each one has a backer strip that juts out about 3/8-inch. This strip keeps the work piece from twisting vertically. Both blocks have a piece of rubber matting (flooring underlayment) which is affixed with double faced tape. |
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On all routing, I was able to
make the cut in one pass, rather than incremental stages. However, the vertical piece
always experienced some tearout.
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To make incremental routing passes without effecting the ideal setup, I clamped blocks next to the tall fence base. These would represent the final cut. I only had to move the fence forward about 1/4" to make the first cut. I only did this on the piece routed vertically, since the horizontal cuts always were clean. |
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One last thought on this subject. This router bit produces a lot of saw dust. Once I installed a vacuum hood in the fence and attached the shop vacuum, the bit made a much cleaner cut. This setup effectively removed about 90% of the sawdust. |
It helps to have the two outlet switched fixture on the router table. The vacuum and router are always on together. |
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So, as the little box sets, I will bring this story to a close. Clearly, the locking miter bit gives the woodworker another joint in his or her bag of tricks. There will be times, when it will be the joint of choice. It is a good joint, and now we know how to make it work, each and every time. |