I now start routing each of the sides. As I explained in the locking miter procedures story, it is important to make an "A" cut on one end and the "B" cut on the other. That way, the box will come out square and without any minor size variations.    I am using a standard push block to hold the board flat to the table and the shop made push block to push it through the bit. This block will also serve as a backing board and minimize tearout.          To make the "B" cuts, I use the vertical push block I made for the locking miter bit. It holds the piece flat against the fence and keeps my fingers a safe distance from the router.    The four sides fit together nicely. The inset close-up shows how nice the fit is. The locking miter joint is attractive and strong.    With the dado set installed, I run a 1/4" groove on each of the sides to hold the bottom panel.       The locking miter joint provides a lot of glue surface so it makes sense to brush the glue in to all the profile.   A couple of clamps hold the box together while the glue sets. I check the corners for square. They are very square.       I have cut two pieces of walnut to fit inside the box. These will serve as a shelf to hold a small tray.    I fit the pieces that will make up this tray.         I move to the table saw to cut a rabbet in the small tray pieces. At the left is my usual dado/rabbeting setup. I didn't like the thought of running the small sides over the large dado insert, so I added a 1/4" piece of ply to the saw table. It is held in place by the fence. I raised the dado blades just the amount necessary to make the rabbet. This setup allows me to make the rabbets safely.    Of course, I could also have rabbeted the stock before cutting it  into the small sides.    I have cut locking miter corners on these small pieces, applied glue and am now clamping the tray using an inexpensive frame clamp. I don't use this clamp often, but it is nice to have for such an application as this. Main Menu           Previous  Page          Next Page