 |
There are a
few things I would like to do before closing out this story. First, I will install the
little brass piece that serves as a stop and keeps the lid open. Secondly, I want to put
the Beall guide bushing plate on and see if that will give me exact mortises without
making an adjustment and, then,a second cut.
|
The lid hinge stop
requires mortising below this slot. My first step is to mark the slot at all 4 mortise
areas.
|
 |
 |
Here, I am trying to get
an idea of how deep the mortise must be to allow the stop to have a place to
"hide" when the lid is closed.
|
The screw holes tell me
about how long the mortise can be.
|
 |
 |
I visited the Beall website to see if there were any hints there. I found nothing
specific except that they do sell a drill bit designed for this mortise. I will order one,
but in the meantime I will try to make the mortise with a series of drill holes.
Here is how there special bit is described: "1/8"
Carbide End Mill. Used in a drill press, this is perfect for cleaning out quadrant slots:
3" long, solid micro-grain carbide with two flutes - works better than
dynamite."
[ Note: I am embarrassed for the "rust" on the chuck. It is
really mahogany sawdust, but it sure looks poor.]
|
I am using a 1/8" brad point
drill to make a series of holes. I try to make complete holes without any overlap. The bit
wants to wander into the old hole if you have overlap. Once I have an entire line of
holes, then I try to remove the waste in between.
I was able to cut the mortises this way but Beall's "carbide end
mill" sounds like it will do a much better job. When I get it in, I will try it and
report the findings.
|
 |
 |
I have to make a similar mortise in the
lid portion....just enough to allow for the head of the stop. I have carefully adjusted
the depth stop. I do not want to go through the top by mistake.
|
With those mortises done, I can
re-install the hinges and test the stops. They work fine.
Next to do: take it a part and finish it, again.
|
 |
 |
This is the guide bushing plate that Beall offers.
It is clear so you can see what you are doing. Frankly, when using this template jig, one
of the nice things is that you don't need to see anything...just rout and let the guide do
its work.
|
My first step is to remove the base
plate that is on my router. That is simple.
|
 |
 |
Next, I install a centering bit that
comes with the clear guide bushing plate. Once chucked, you can lower the router so that
the bushing is lower than the base.
|
Now, it is a simple matter of placing
the clear bushing guide plate over the centering bit. There is no play in the fit, so
clearly the plate can be centering accurately.
|
 |
 |
Rather than to drill holes and mount
the clear plate that way, Beall uses heavy duty pressure sensitive tape to hold the plate
on the router.
|
You, then, simply press the plate onto the router.
The centering pin makes the task very simple.
|
 |
 |
I removed the centering pin and am now inserting the
1/4" down cut spiral bit.
Now, the report: I would like to say that it gave me very exact mortises
without having to make any adjustments. In fact, the mortise I cut with this guide plate
was a little too large...not by much but more than I would want.
So before I close this chapter, I am going to ask JR Beall for his thoughts.
It could be a number of things. For me, I will use the router's guide bushing and make the
2nd cut after turning the positioning screw 3 turns—I know that works.
|