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   Having set the router to the correct depth, I now positioned the corner of the Hinge Wizard on my test piece locked in the vise.
  

    This gives you a good view of the underside of the Hinge Wizard. The hand screw I am holding is used to center the jig on the side of the corner.
  

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   The centering is easily done by eye. It is the clear plastic channel that I am centering on the side.

   With the jig positioned to where I want it, I use the Hinge Wizard's clamp to lock the jig in place.

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  It takes literally seconds to follow the guide and route the mortise.

   Now to test the fit. It doesn't. The mortise is too narrow. It was clear that the small discrepancy of the guide bushing was causing this error. Rather than to change over to the Beall guide plate, I decided to use the fine adjustment and to cut the mortise again...just a tiny bit.

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   I didn't know how much to move the jig, and I certainly didn't want to over-shoot. You can make a small adjustment and make another pass. You can't put the wood back. What I did was to adjust the set screw 1 turn at a time and each time make another "hairline" pass. It worked. It took exactly three tries...and three turns of the set screw. So, if I do each corner in two passes and adjust the jig 3 turns between passes, I should be just fine.

   With the hinge in-place, I mark the slot. This slot holds the hinge stop...a feature that lets the hinge be raised so far and can stay locked at that point.
   With this slot marked, I will come back to that feature in a  little bit. Right now, I move to cut the next mortise.
   Because you have to switch the edge guide around to the other side to cut the other corner, Beall's instructions say that you should cut the opposite side of the other piece—in this case, the corner of the lid.

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