Well, I finished my first corner with
this new set, and I am glad I did before Beth arrived. My joint turned out
"OK", but I think I will teach Beth a slightly different way to make the
joint.
The instructions say to make the the mortises 1/4" from the top surface.
While that works, what I really want to do is to make my mortise exactly where the
profiling bit has space for that mortise. If your profiling cut is off a hair, all other
things will be off.
So I instruct Beth to first make a sample cut using the profiling bit.
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Beth has
installed the profile bit and is using the RouterRaizer to raise the bit so that the
ledge of the cutter is level with the straight edge which is exactly 1/16"
thick.
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With the height set, she uses the
straight edge to align the fence with the pattern bearing.
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She profiles the sample piece.
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She inspects the sample. In the inset,
the arrow points to the top "ledge". This is why she set the router bit height
so carefully to have that ledge be 1/16th of an inch it "looks"
right.
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At the mortiser, Beth carefully
adjusts the fence until the chisel is aligned with the profile of the cutter. The insert
shows where the mortise should go just at the edge of that ledge.
While the mortise can be set to the 1/4" mark, I think that this method
of cutting to the shape of the profile works better and is easier.
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With her sample done and
the mortiser setup, she marks both the rails with lines to indicate the width of the
mortises.
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At the mortiser, she makes sure
that the top of the rail is against the fence and is held firmly while she makes the cuts.
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Beth has her mortises made. It is time
to cut the tenons. Note that she has numbered each corner on the back side. It is easy to
get the pieces turned around and be a hair off a hair off is a sloppy mortise and
tenon joint.
You can see also that she has cut full width mortises. The outside edge of
the mirror will be getting an add-on bead strip which will hide this open edge.
Now it is time for Beth to cut the matching tenons.
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