New Product - CMT Lonnie Bird's Crown Molding Set

   I have mounted a flush cutting bit in my CMT router table and am trimming the excess white panel from the fence.
   This view gives you a better look at the construction of this fence. The side I am using is 6" while the side that is vertical here is 12". It will make a great fence for the cove cutter.

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    I want to mount this fence so that I can adjust the angle and location and still lock it in place. I decide to use an Incra Miter Slide that fits in the miter slot and can be locked in place.

   I have attached the miter bar to the fence at one "swivel point." Here, I am tightening the locking screw to hold the fence in this position. You can see that I am using a protractor to set the angle between the fence and the miter slot (blade.)

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        Once I have everything set, I add a heavy duty wood clamp to firmly fix this fence in position. The screw that I tightened seemed to lock the bar pretty well, but this clamp is necessary considering some of the forces cutting will place on it — it just makes sense.

     With the fence secured, I place holddowns and guides to keep the stock smoothly against the fence. The Grip-Tites are idea for use here. I am using a scrap piece of stock to help me set them and the featherboard in place. I want very little pressure on any of these guides. Running the stock smoothly over the cutter gives a wonderfully smooth cove cut.

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   Both the box cover and the instruction sheets show three basic moldings you can make from this set. Considering all the cutters and angle of coves, the actual numbers of shapes is "infinite."
    Using my test/samples, I find a cove that is similar to the one on the box.

  I draw the cove profile on a hunk of cherry I will use to make my first molding.

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      Having set the fence angle to 40o and no tilt on the blade, I use the sample to approximate the fence position.

        As I did earlier, I add a clamp to the fence.

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   This setup really worked well for me. I am attaching a shopmade feather board to the fence to put downward pressure on the wood. I have positioned the two Grip-Tites to keep the wood against the fence. Fact is, I found the cutter to work so smoothly that little force was needed to keep the workpiece in line.

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