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A week has
passed, and we are just now back to the clocks. Beth and I looked at the wood that I had
on hand and agreed that the light panel of the quilted maple would contrast nicely with
the dark cherry case.
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Beth makes one final sanding of the
faces with the Delta Bench Orbital Sander and 220 grit paper.
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She selects the side that would make
the better face for the clock. There is a lot of different grain and figure patterns so
this selection is important. She places an "X" approximately where the clock
hole should be drilled.
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Last week, we cut the sample
clock panel with a jig for the router. It worked well, but in fact, ordering the right
size Forstner bit makes more sense. This one is made by CMT. (Catalog number: 537.476.31 -
$25.90).
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Beth installs the 1 7/8" bit in the
drill press.
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Since, I do not have a table top for
the drill press, Beth will make a jig to use with the clock panels and the frame pieces.
She starts by finding a piece of scrap wood that is flat and large enough to
cover the drill press table.
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She drills a shallow hole so that the
drill location is marked on this board.
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Back at the bench, she marks the center
line of the hole.
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She now marks a center line of one of
the clock panels.
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She places it on the
board where it is centered side to side. She uses the same measurement for the distance to
the top of the panel.
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With the panel located where she wants
it, she uses the brad nailer to tack some strips of wood on three sides of the panel. She
leaves just enough room so that the panels can be inserted and removed easily.
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Back at the drill press, she places her
board on the drill press table and lowers the bit to fit into the previously drilled hole.
She places clamps to secure the board on the drill press table.
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Before she can start drilling,
she must set the depth of cut to the thickness of the clock fit-up. She lowers the
non-turning drill so that it touches the work piece.
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She adjusts the drill
press's drill depth adjustment to give the 7/16" depth that is called for in the
clock specifications.
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She checks her first panel. It looks
good. Now she can drill the other nine panels.
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Back at the sander, she runs the panels
over the 220 disk just to give each face one last smoothing.
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With the same setup as when she did the
cases, Beth rabbets the back of each of the clock panels to allow it to fit in the case
dado.
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Even though she is working so close to
the dado blades, this operation is made safe by using pushblocks. In the right hand, she
has a pushblock mounted to a 1/2" piece of MDF. Her left hand presses a standard foam
base pushblock on the workpiece itself.
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Beth displays the rabbeted back.
This view also, shows the two pushblocks that make this small part rabbeting
operation safe.
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