I am now near the foot end of the uprights. The obvious best joint for a cross piece would be a half-lap joint. I could set up a router to plow out the pieces, but I thought I would give a try with the plunge saw. I have set the plunge depth to be about one half the thickness of the 2 x 4. The red line is just to show that I will be cutting across both the front and back pieces. That should keep the joint lined up. |
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This time my red markings indicate the number of cross cuts I need to make. Actually, the plunge saw blade is such a narrow kerf, cutting the number of passes took longer than I had thought. |
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Finished. I cut the first and last line to start and then simply moved the fence a skosh and cut...probably 20 times or so, |
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Then I used my trustee hammer to knock out all the in-betweens. |
I smoothed out the bottom with a very sharp 1" chisel inverted so that I could simply pare the bottom. It took only a few strokes to create the smooth bottom that I want. |
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This view tells much more. The back leg has the multiple
crosscuts. The forward leg has been completed.
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If you look at the picture above, my hand was holding the chisel down on the flat of the wood. That makes it easy to shear the bottom flat, but knuckles can get bruised. I attached this magnetic lock device to the top of the chisel blade and it gives me a handle to control the blade. |
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Please
pardon this very blurry picture. I have a new camera and clearly, I am a true beginner on
its use. I'll get it.
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Here is a photo of the magnetic device from the website of Lee Valley (link to LV). You would be interested in reading about the "real" uses for this handy device. They are called "Mag-Jig Magnetic Clamps." |
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