I am now near the foot end of the uprights. The obvious best joint for a
cross piece would be a half-lap joint. I could set up a router to plow
out the pieces, but I thought I would give a try with the plunge saw. I have
set the plunge depth to be about one half the thickness of the 2 x 4. The
red line is just to show that I will be cutting across both the front and
back pieces. That should keep the joint lined up.
This time my red markings indicate the number
of cross cuts I need to make. Actually, the plunge saw blade is such a
narrow kerf, cutting the number of passes took longer than I had thought.
Finished. I cut the first and last line to start and then simply moved the
fence a skosh and cut...probably 20 times or so,
Then I used my trustee hammer
to knock out all the in-betweens.
I smoothed out the bottom with a very sharp 1" chisel inverted so that I could
simply pare the bottom. It took only a few strokes to create the smooth
bottom that I want.
This view tells much more. The back leg has
the multiple crosscuts. The forward leg has been completed.
It took more time than I thought it would — mainly because the saw
blade kerf is so fine. But the end result is tops. I think it will be
easier to continue this method. Setting up the router will take more time.
If you look at the picture above, my
hand was holding the chisel down on the flat of the wood. That makes it easy
to shear the bottom flat, but knuckles can get bruised. I attached this
magnetic lock device to the top of the chisel blade and it gives me a handle
to control the blade.
Please pardon this very blurry picture.
I have a new camera and clearly, I am a true beginner on its use. I'll get
it.
But you can see my use of this handle. It makes all the difference
in the world.
Here is a photo of the magnetic device
from the website of Lee Valley (link
to LV). You would be interested in reading about the "real" uses for
this handy device. They are called "Mag-Jig Magnetic Clamps."