With one leg cut, Maureen looks at the original to
see where the mortise is located. She is holding the beadLOCK drilling block. The
black rectangle at the right is a set of spacers that come with the beadLOCK. She
sees that she will have to use the entire pack to set the mortise back as it is in the
original leg.
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At the workbench, she places
the leg and the beadLOCK jig in the vise. All the spacers are in place, and she has lined
up the jig with the centerline she had marked.
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Maureen has added a piece of masking tape to serve as a depth indicator. She wants to
drill the holes 3/8", or half-way, into the workpiece. She drills the first holes.
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She then moves the
jig to the "B" position and locks it in place.
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And she drills the two holes that are
revealed. Lastly, she moves the jig back to the "A" position, and re-drills the
first 3 holes. This serves to clean out the mortise.
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To
clarify how the jig works, the drill guide has 3 holes and an "A" and
"B" position. You start in the "A" position and drill 3 holes. After
shifting to the "B" position, only two holes are exposed. They are precisely
lined up between the first three holes. When done, the mortise will have 5 overlapping
holes.
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| Maureen's first beadLOCK
mortise looks very good.
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Here is a
closer look. There is no doubt that copying this chair will take some time but is a doable
task.
Before we break for the week, here is a close-up of some of the joints that
make up the chair. I present them to illustrate the cleverness of the assembly, and how
versatile the beadLOCK System is.
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| The Front Right Leg
the front joins the leg with a straight, full width beadLOCK joint that is offset so
that the front panel is inset by 1/8". Of course, the Left Front Leg is similar.
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The
Left Chair Side The right end attaches to the front leg with a full beadLOCK tenon
in an end that is angled. The left end joins the rear leg and is also angled. In
both cases, the tenons are square to the angled end and to the leg. The Right Chair Side
is the same but reversed.
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The Back Left Leg This view says a lot. First, the side enters
straight, but you can see where the leg is angled. At the left, the back side joins the
leg square. It may look like the leg slants back slightly but that is the perspective of
the photo. The total leg is curved but straightens out here, where the chair seat frame
joins.
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The Bottom Spreader
The mid-stretcher joins the right spreader at an angle. The single pin is not a
dowel, but one pin of a beadLOCK Loose Tenon. Of course, the side stretcher hole is
drilled at the same joining angle.
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The Top and Bottom Seat Back Rails The upper rail
is shown upside down. Both rails have slight curves to them. The top and bottom rail
mortises were cut with a series of 3/8" holes, and then a chisel was used to square
the mortises. The panel that fits in these rails is 3/8" thick and also curved. The
lower rail joins the legs with beadLOCK tenons and are only 3 wide (normal is 5.) The
upper rail does not use beadLOCK. It is screwed to the leg as the final step. When we make
the Mission Style version, we will use beadLOCK tenons similar to the lower rail.
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Here is one final look at the
beadLOCK demonstration chair. Maureen and I have studied it pretty carefully and will make
the same chair except that we will make the legs from 1 1/2" stock, the top rail will
be square and mortised just like the bottom rail, and instead of one solid panel, we will
use several slats.
I will pickup some quartersawn white oak, and next week we will continue
chair making.
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