Project - "Adding the Incra Ultra Jig to the Sommerfeld Router Table"

	I said when I finished the CMT/Sommerfeld Router Table that I would try to add the Incra Ultra Jig to it. Well I have, and I think this is the best of both worlds. The Incra Jig detaches so that I can still use the CMT/Sommerfeld Fence.    Fact is, there will be times for the Incra Jig and times for the regular setup — it is nice to have that choice.    In the next page or two, I will detail what I did to add the Incra Jig.
With the bent wrench, I install my favorite bit, the locking miter bit.    For regular readers, you have heard much to much about the bent wrench. To me, it makes changing bits from above the table possible and a "breeze." The other part of the system is the Hitachi M12V that has the best collet — it releases and locks the bit in about 1/4 of a turn. [To go to the Hitachi M12V story, clieck here.]
	I have cut pieces of 3/4" Oak plywood to 6 1/2" width. These will make up a column to support the Incra Jig.    Note, that I have also added a dust collector. It is so much more effective that the ShopVac I have been using.
I have installed a featherboard to help keep the stock flat against the fence.
	The locking miter joint has plenty of glue surfaces.    This view shows the simple column that I am making. It is simple but very strong. I certainly could have used a butt joint or rabbeted the sides, but, to me, the locking miter has so many pluses, once you have the setup down pat.
Using this bit with plywood is fine, but there can be a lot of tearout. What I do, is make a second "cleanup" pass. Even then I have to use a clamp to pull the joint together. It doesn't take much clamping pressure.
	Then, rather than wait for the glue to set, I pop a 1 1/2" finish nail into the joint. I remove the clamp and move down 8 inches or so and repeat the process. This "stitching" gives me a tight, finished column in short order.    I use a block plane to knock down the very sharp corners.
I used the beadLOCK Loose Tenon System in a different way that it was intended. I want to be able to remove the platform when not in use. The beadLOCK will be used to align the two top surfaces.    I start by drilling the holes in the router table top. The phenolic is such a hard material to drill, I used two clamps to ensure that the drill wouldn't twist the jig.
	I will use a piece of 3/4" MDF for the top of the column. I am using 3M spray adhesive on a sheet of 120 grit sandpaper. I will add this to the MDF to help keep the Incra Jig from slipping.
Now I can drill the beadLOCK holes in the MDF top.
	I use one layer of wood veneer edging to bring the column height up a bit. This compensates for the slightly greater thickness of the heavy phenolic router table.
It was worth the little extra effort. The beadLOCK piece aligns the two exactly. I have glued the beadLOCK tenon into the MDF piece and added two 3/4" brads to hold the tenon in place. On the end that slides into the phenolic table, I sprayed a small mist of wax. It fits in smoothly and aligns the two very well.
	With it fully inserted, I drill four holes to attach the top to the column. The column is attached by two screws into a block under the top of the table.    When not in use, I will remove these screws and hang the column on the wall.
Two clamps and the Incra Jig is firmly attached to the column.