Making perfect beaded face frames is
very easy — as long as you take certain steps. I have created this check off
list so that the initial set-up and trouble shooting can be made easier.
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Step 1:
Width of rail stock: I always start with the rail stock. I use the same for both
stiles and rails, but only the rail stock is where the width dimension is critical.
It must be 1.5" wide. (Kreg does offer a 2" notching bit for 2" stock.)
Measure them exactly.
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Step 2:
Notching bit height: the Kreg depth tool works very well, or you can use your
digital depth finder. You want to get a depth of 1/4"
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Step 3:
Check the actual cut depth. When you cut a notch, use the
other side of the Kreg tool to check the actual depth of the cut. If it is off,
inspect the flatness of your table and insert. Also check to see how secure the stiles are
in the clamping device. They must be flat on the table when cutting.
If this is correct, do not change the depth even if the test fit
"looks" like the rail isn't fitting deeply enough. If this shows the depth to be
correct, don't change it.
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Step 4:
Check the corners of the rails. The fence was set at 1/2" to
the left of zero. This should give you a cut of 1/4" in both directions.
If the rail doesn't fit the stile notch, make sure that the corner(s) are cut cleanly. If
not, check that the rail is clamped securely and the cut is clean. I have found that this
one cut is the most likely to vary and give you a less than perfect joint.
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Step 5: Keep your test cuts. When you have a test cut that is
"perfect", keep it to be used as a checking sample for future beaded face frame
setups..
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A finished corner including
the beading operation. If you follow the steps above, you should be able to have all your
corners tight and looking good.
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