When we finished the bottom, we thought we were near completion. Wrong!!! The project book author, Perry McDaniel, has created a complex, beautiful box which can only be made with the Incra Jig. Like the bottom and the hinges, there are many steps to making and each take the same exacting precision. If you are looking to do a quick box and be done, this is not the project for you. On the other hand, if you want to test your abilities, then have fun making this jewelry box; we did.     As with the other segments, there is nothing difficult about any one step. It does require taking each step one-by-one and being sure that it is done accurately.    In Bethany's absence I have ripped the individual components to the correct sizes.    The first step, is to use a scrap piece of stock and test a dovetail cut along its width. Bethany has installed the dovetail bit and zeroed the fence before starting. She uses the push block we made earlier.    With the dovetail groove made, she measures the depth and adds that dimension to the rail stock, cut previously.    She uses the Incra Miter Gauge to make the cuts. She has positioned the Incra Stop to make the cut accurately.    Since our usual perspective is making larger pieces, it took some getting use to the fact that measurements for this box should be to the closest 32nd of an inch. It is a good thing to learn.   Per the instructions, Bethany marks one of the rail boards with an "X". Note, that while the individual components can be very small, the designer works with large pieces so that they can be handled more easily and safely. Both rails will be cut from this one piece.    With the dovetail bit just barely exposed, she makes a light "scoring" cut on both sides and both ends.   Remember, this piece will be split in two after the milling operation. The push block makes this cut accurate and safe.    Moving the fence in steps of 1/16th of an inch, she continues this cutting  until she sees the mark "9B" under her cursor.  Then she makes the cut on the marked side against the fence only.    She moves the fence to "10B." This moves the piece so that the next routing pass is on the outside, so she feeds the piece carefully from the "outfeed" side of the table.    This process ensures that the final dovetail is exactly the right width (from 9B to 10B). It is a very clever way to give you that exact dovetail width, even with variations of board thickness.    Note that she uses the push block as before, but this time, it will be cut slightly by the bit.    The next step is to cut sliding dovetail slots in the ends of the stiles. The dovetail slot will only be at each end for the distance of the width of the rail. She places the Incra Stop on the fence.    She places a block of wood on the infeed side and next to the router bit. She then adjusts the sliding rod of the Incra Stop so that it touches the board. Now she moves the scale on the fence so that position is "0". Then she moves the Incra Stop to read 1 5/8".    Now she can make stopped sliding dovetail cuts on the stiles.    The next step in routing the stile, is to use a 1/4" straight bit to route dados in the stiles between the sliding dovetails at each end. With the stile piece against the infeed stop, she carefully lowers the piece on the bit, using the pressure pad to keep the stile firmly against the fence.      After routing the stile until it contacts the outfeed Incra Stop, she carefully raises the piece off the table.    She used a push stick to saw the rail and stile parts into the 1 3/4" final width.    While Bethany is at the table saw, she rips the 1/4" maple to size. The instructions call for 2 strips of 13/16" and 4 strips of 23/32". One thing can be said for these projects—they call for accuracy. That alone can be a good lesson.  Main Menu Previous Page Next Page Go to Mfr.'s Site